This is only a preview of the January 2023 issue of Practical Electronics. You can view 0 of the 72 pages in the full issue. Articles in this series:
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REMOTE CONTROL
RANGE
EXTENDER
Most remote controls use pulses of infrared light to control equipment.
This usually only works reliably up to a few metres and is easily blocked by
furniture, people, plants... just about anything. Convert an IR remote to use
UHF instead, and it will work at much longer ranges. It will even work when
something is between the remote and the device, regardless of where the
remote is pointed!
M
ost of the time, infrared
remote controls work very
well. But there are times
where they are woefully inadequate.
This could be because there is an
obstruction between the remote control and appliance to be controlled.
Or the receiver on the device may be
awkwardly placed, making it difficult
to direct the infrared beam to it.
Sometimes you might even want to
use the remote control in a different room
from the appliance being controlled.
Or you might need to position the
appliance so that the receiver is not
facing where you will usually be
located, such as a projector, where it
will typically be behind you. Sometimes you can reflect the IR signals
using the projector screen, but that
doesn’t always work reliably.
Regardless of why the IR signal
doesn’t work well, this device is a
great solution. It allows you to convert
the infrared remote to transmit using
UHF radio signals rather than infrared
light. Another small box positioned
in front of the infrared receiver on
the appliance picks up these radio
signals and transmits IR directly into
the device’s receiver.
Note that if you have more than one
appliance to be controlled, you could
convert all their remotes to transmit on
UHF and use a single UHF-to-IR converter to relay the signals to all those
devices. That’s provided the appliances are in the same vicinity, so that
the light from a single transmitter can
reach all their receivers.
Concept
Fig.1 shows the general arrangement for the Range Extender. Fig.1(a)
shows how the IR-to-UHF Converter
works, while Fig.1(b) shows the
UHF-to-IR Converter.
The IR-to-UHF Converter monitors
the signal that would normally be fed
to the IR LED. When a button on the
remote control is pressed, it produces
a ~36kHz modulated signal to drive
that LED. IC1 instead demodulates
that signal, and its output (waveform
B) is shown in scope grabs Scope 1 and
Scope 2 (which can be seen overleaf,
with the other scope grabs).
Fig.1(a): the Remote Control Range Extender has two parts. The first is the IR-to-UHF Converter which runs from the
remote’s battery and converts its IR LED drive signal to a UHF transmission. The second is the UHF-to-IR Converter which
picks up those UHF signals and drives an infrared LED with appropriate modulation to control the appliance(s).
32
Practical Electronics | January | 2023
IR-to-UHF Converter
n Transmission range: 25m through one weatherboard and Gyprock wall
n Signal delay: 56μs
n UHF transmitter power-down period: 600ms after the last signal
n Standby current: 80nA typical at 3V supply (90nA measured)
n Operating current: 8mA average during transmission
UHF-to-IR Converter
n Valid transmission detection: requires 3ms minimum quieting period
n Acknowledge LED lighting: 654ms time-out after a valid signal
n Modulation frequency: 32.4kHz to 41.4kHz in 32 steps
n Modulation duty cycle: 33.3%
n Current consumption: close to 50mA during signal reception
n IR transmission range: typically 2m to appliance receiver
By John Clarke
‘Demodulation’ converts the series
of brief 36kHz pulses to a signal that’s
high when the pulses are present and
low otherwise.
When IC1 detects it is receiving a
signal, it powers the UHF transmitter (IC2) and sends the demodulated
signal to the UHF transmitter’s input.
The result is that the UHF transmitter
produces a 433.92MHz modulated signal to the transmitting antenna. This
is waveform C.
So overall, the original 36kHz
modulated signal is converted to a
433.92MHz modulated signal for wireless transmission.
The corresponding UHF-to-IR Converter has a UHF receiver (RX1) that
provides the demodulated waveform,
shown as waveform D. This matches
the B waveform – see Scope 3. Processor IC1 on the second board then
uses a new 36kHz carrier to produce
a modulated waveform, waveform E,
that matches the original waveform
A, as shown in Scope 4 and Scope 5.
This modulated signal then drives
an infrared LED that sends the signal
onto the appliance(s) via their onboard
IR receivers.
Note that 36kHz is a typical modulation frequency used in infrared remote
controls. You can adjust the modulation frequency of the final infrared output to match that of the original remote
control, since the remote control could
use another frequency between about
32kHz and 41kHz.
Overall, the original handheld
remote signal is duplicated at the
output of the UHF-to-IR Converter.
The appliance receiving the signal is
none the wiser that any processing
has occurred.
Previously
Note that we published a similar project named Add a UHF link to a universal remote control (PE, August 2014).
While that project is still valid, this
one has a much smaller transmitter
circuit that can be fitted into small
infrared remote controls, unlike the
one from 2013.
This became apparent when we
tried to install our earlier design inside
a small remote control for an LCD projector. There just wasn’t any room for
it. Subsequently, the entire IR-to-UHF
circuit has been redesigned using surface mount components.
Instead of using a large pre-built
UHF transmitter module, we use a
very small UHF transmitter IC with a
few discrete components.
Remote’s battery life
One question that arises is what happens to the battery life of the modified
remote. Will the battery be flattened in
a short time when the UHF transmitter
circuitry is added?
We have made sure that there will
be a negligible effect on battery life by
keeping the circuitry in a sleep mode
when the remote is not being used. A
typical infrared remote control draws
about 1-2μA from the battery continuously and around 10-20mA during
infrared transmission. The UHF transmitter’s added power draw has almost
no effect on these figures.
With the IR-to-UHF Converter
installed, we measured the standby
Fig.1(b): the waveforms at right, both here and in Fig.1(a) opposite, show how the original IR LED drive signal is
demodulated, then remodulated to 433.92MHz, then demodulated, and then finally remodulated to around 36kHz to drive
the IR LED.
Practical Electronics | January | 2023
33
A real soldering challenge!
One of the main goals of this design
was for the UHF transmitter to be
tiny enough to fit inside just about
any remote control case. That rules
out using a pre-built UHF transmitter
module, and due to the relatively high
frequencies involved, the components
need to be small. Very small.
This project uses by far the smallest components we’ve ever specified
in a design.
The 68nH inductor comes in a metric 0603 SMD package (imperial 0201)
– that’s 0.6 x 0.3mm! Unless you have
excellent vision, it will just look like
a dot to you (if you can see it at all).
And the metric 1206 SMD inductors
(imperial 0402) aren’t all that much
bigger at 1.2 x 0.6mm.
Soldering these devices is a challenge, to put it mildly. If you decide
to go ahead, we suggest you purchase at least 10 of each (hey, they’re
cheap!). That way, if you mangle or
lose them, you can grab another one
and try again.
Even the larger (by comparison)
devices on this board are a little tricky
to solder because it’s so packed with
components – again, to keep it small
and also so it can transmit 434MHz
signals efficiently.
Besides being a useful little device
to build, if you have reasonable SMD
soldering skills and want to push yourself to achieve the next level of skill,
assembling the transmitter module
described here would be a great way
to do that.
current increasing by a mere 90nA
(0.09μA)! The current drain when a
button is pressed is essentially unaltered and possibly even a little less
than before, as the remote’s IR LED is
not used and replaced by UHF transmission, which is on average 8mA
when active.
By the way, we measured the 90nA
figure by connecting a 100kW resistor
in series with the device’s supply and
shorting it out until it went into sleep
mode. We then measured 9mV across
this resistor, which equates to 90nA
(9mV ÷ 100kW).
9-12V DC plugpack or USB power
source should be suitable.
demodulated output at pin 4. That pin
goes high when a modulated signal is
present and low when the modulation
is absent.
IC2 is a UHF transmitter that sends
digital data using two different carrier wave amplitudes. This is known
as Amplitude Shift Keying (or ASK).
For our purposes, there is no UHF
transmission when the digital signal is
low (near 0V) and a 433.92MHz carrier
transmission when the digital signal
is high (near 3V).
IC1’s demodulated signal at pin 4
is suitable for driving IC2 at its ASK
input (pin 6). Note that the pin 3 output of IC1 drives the supply input for
IC2, at its pin 3. This way, IC2 can be
shut down when not needed, drawing
no power at idle.
The transmission frequency is set
using a crystal oscillator that is multiplied by 32 within IC2 to produce the
UHF carrier. So the 13.56MHz crystal gives a carrier at 433.92MHz. This
matches the carrier frequency used in
most UHF ASK transmitter/receiver
modules that are available for lowpower UHF data transmission.
Receiver
The companion UHF-to-IR Converter
is housed in a small plastic case. One
end of the case has a red acknowledge
LED and an IR LED to re-transmit the
received UHF signal as an IR signal.
There is also a 3.5mm jack socket to
allow the connection of an external IR
LED via a cable.
This device either draws power from
a 9-12V DC plugpack or from USB 5V.
The circuit draws a maximum current
of 50mA when transmitting, so any
Circuit details
Fig.2 shows the circuit of the IR-toUHF Converter that’s designed to be
built into the remote control. It comprises a PIC10LF322 microcontroller
(IC1), a MICRF113 UHF transmitter
(IC2) and associated components.
IC1 monitors the infrared LED drive
signal originally used to drive the
infrared LED. The handheld remote
output will drive either low or high
to power the LED.
An open-collector driver transistor
or MOSFET in the remote control IC is
normally used. This output requires a
pull-up resistance to turn it into a digital signal for sensing, which is supplied
by a MOSFET we enable inside IC1.
A 1kW pull-down resistor is shown
on the circuit, but this is only required
if the remote control has an open-collector (or open-drain) output that
drives high to power the LED. We will
describe how to check for this later.
IC1 converts the LED drive modulation (typically 36kHz) into a
IR-to-UHF Converter V2
Fig.2: the IR-to-UHF Converter section circuit deliberately uses few components to make the PCB as small as possible.
It’s powered by the typically 3V supply of the remote control (from two 1.5V cells). IC1 demodulates the drive signal that
would normally go to an infrared LED. When it detects a button press, it powers up UHF transmitter IC2 and feeds it the
demodulated signal that is then radiated by the antenna at 434MHz.
34
Practical Electronics | January | 2023
Scope 1: the top yellow trace is the
infrared LED drive signal from the
remote control, applied to pin 1 of
IC1. This is a series of 36kHz pulses.
The lower blue trace shows the
output of IC1 at pin 4 that drives the
ASK input (pin 6) of the MICRF113
434MHz transmitter (IC2). This signal
is high whenever there is a 36kHz
signal at the input and low otherwise.
The MICRF113 and its associated
components are tiny, fitting in a much
tighter space than most pre-built UHF
transmitter modules that are available.
The supply current for IC2’s RF
output stage is via two series-connected 220nH inductors, also acting
as a 440nH driver load. The following
12pF series capacitor and 68nH inductor plus the 5pF capacitor to ground
act as a filter that removes second and
third harmonics from the UHF signal
before it passes to the antenna.
We mainly use two 220nH inductors
instead of one 470nH inductor because
we found suitable 220nH inductors
easier to source. Any inductor used in
the circuit must have a self-resonance
(SR) frequency above 433.92MHz; otherwise, it will not function as an inductor at that frequency.
Scope 2: this is the same capture as
Scope 1 except with a faster timebase,
so the 36kHz modulation is visible.
Note the delay of about 56μs between
IC1 receiving the 36kHz pulses and
producing the demodulated pulses at
its output. This does not distort the
signal because it is symmetrical.
Power for IC2
IC2’s power rail at pin 3 is bypassed
with a 1μF ceramic capacitor, while a
100nF capacitor bypasses the output
stage supply. These two capacitors
are essentially in parallel but are at
different locations on the PCB so that
the supply for each part is bypassed
directly at its supply connection.
We include schottky diode D2
between the ASK signal and the IC2
supply to boost the supply whenever
the IC is transmitting. The pin 3 output drops in voltage when supplying current; and the current flowing
from pin 4 of IC1 via diode D2 assists
in maintaining a stable supply voltage for IC2.
While IC2 can operate down to 1.8V,
it’s best to keep its supply voltage as
close as possible to the 3V from the
remote battery for the best efficiency.
IC1’s supply is bypassed by another
100nF ceramic capacitor. Diode D1
is included in case the cells in the
remote are inserted the wrong way
around, causing a reverse polarity to be
applied. In this case, D1 will conduct
and reduce the reverse voltage applied
to IC1, preventing it from being damaged (at least in the short term).
UHF-to-IR Converter
The UHF signal needs to be detected
and converted back to a stream of
infrared pulses to control the appliance being operated. The UHF-to-IR
Converter circuit is shown in Fig.3,
and comprises UHF receiver RX1, a
PIC12F617 microcontroller (IC1) and
an infrared LED (LED1).
The circuit is powered via either DC
socket CON1 or micro-B USB socket
CON2. The UHF receiver is powered
continuously, ready to receive a transmission from the IR-to-UHF Converter
in the handheld remote.
Practical Electronics | January | 2023
Scope 3: the top yellow trace shows
the IR drive signal from the handheld
remote as in Scope 1, but the lower
trace is the output from the UHF
receiver in the UHF-to-IR Converter,
ie, after it has passed over the
wireless link.
Scope 4: the top yellow trace is the
infrared LED drive signal from the
original infrared remote, while the
lower blue trace is the IR LED drive
signal in the UHF-to-IR Converter.
The two waveforms are essentially
the same except for the slight delay
in the second trace, and the different
voltage levels due to the UHF-toIR circuit being powered from 5V
instead of 3V. The signal inversion is
of no consequence.
Scope5: a zoomed-in version of Scope
4 showing the modulation on both
signals. The rise time of the original
waveform at the top is slow due to the
low pull-up current from pin 1 of the
PIC10LF322. The lower blue trace is
the IR LED drive from the UHF-to-IR
Converter. The frequency has been set
to about 36kHz to match the handheld
remote. The top trace is inverted
compared to the lower trace, as the
original LED in the handheld remote
was on when the output was low,
whereas the IR LED in the UHF-to-IR
Converter LED drive is active-high.
With no signal present, the data output from the UHF receiver is just random noise with an amplitude of 5V.
In this state, the receiver operates at
maximum gain due to its automatic
gain control (AGC). When a UHF
signal is received, the AGC reduces
the receiver’s sensitivity so that the
detected signal is essentially noisefree. This is fed to the GP5 input (pin
2) of PIC micro IC1.
To determine if a signal is valid,
IC1 checks for periods where the data
line from the UHF receiver is at 0V for
35
at least 3ms. This indicates that the
AGC has reduced the sensitivity of
the receiver and that a transmission
is occurring.
The data output from the UHF
receiver matches that data applied to
the UHF transmitter. This data signal,
in part, becomes the Acknowledge
waveform that drives LED2 via digital
output GP0. The 1kW resistor limits the
LED current to around 3mA.
IC1 drives the IR LED (LED1) from
its GP1 and GP2 outputs in parallel to provide sufficient current. The
220W resistor limits this current to
around 18mA.
The infrared LED drive signal needs
to include the same or similar modulation as that used by the original remote.
So when the data output from the UHF
receiver goes high, the GP1 and GP2
outputs are driven with pulse-width
modulated signals. The duty cycle is
33.3%, so they are high 1/3 of the time
and low 2/3 of the time.
The GP4 input of IC1 monitors the
voltage set by trimpot VR1, connected
across the 5V supply rail. Its wiper
voltage is converted to a digital value
within IC1, allowing the IR carrier
frequency to be adjusted to match the
original transmitter. The adjustment
range is from 32.4kHz to 41.4kHz in
32 steps. Setting VR1 to its mid-position gives 37kHz.
Usually, somewhere near the middle setting is satisfactory, but some
devices might require a different carrier frequency to operate reliably.
A second output is provided via
a 3.5mm jack socket (CON3) for an
external IR LED (if necessary). This
IR LED can be mounted near the IR
receiver of the appliance(s) which are
being operated.
Power from a 9-12V DC plugpack is
fed in via diode D1, providing reverse
polarity protection. A 78L05 3-terminal regulator then provides a 5V supply for RX1 and IC1. Power via the USB
connector is applied to the 5V supply
rail via a 4.7W resistor. This resistor
prevents excess current flow between
the REG1 output and the 5V from the
USB should be connected.
Construction
The IR-to-UHF Converter PCB is coded
15109212, measures 15mm x 12mm
and is available from the PE PCB Service. It has components mounted on
both sides. Refer to the PCB overlay
diagrams, Fig.4a and Fig.4b, to see
which parts go where.
Now is the time to program IC1 – the
code is available for download from
the January 2023 page of the PE website: https://bit.ly/pe-downloads
Begin assembly by fitting the surface-mount parts on the top side of
the PCB. These can be soldered using
a fine-tipped soldering iron. Good
close-up vision is necessary; you might
need a magnifying lens or glasses to see
well enough. Fine-point tweezers can
help to hold the components in place.
It will be easier to install the two
220nH inductors first. Solder one pad
and then check alignment. Reheat the
soldered pad and move the device if
the inductor needs moving before soldering the second pad.
Next, mount the two ICs. IC1 and
IC2 are positioned so that the small pin
1 location dot aligns with that on the
PCB. When the IC is held with pin 1
at lower left, the writing on the IC top
face will be the right way up. IC1 will
be marked LF followed by two traceability code numbers. IC2 will have
‘F_113’ etched on the top face.
Orient the ICs on the PCB with the
pin 1 dot at upper left. For each IC,
solder one pad first and then check
their alignment. Readjust the component positioning by reheating the
solder joint if necessary before soldering the remaining pins. Any shorts
between pins can be cleared using solder wick to draw up the excess solder (adding flux paste first will help
this process).
Now diode D2 can be soldered in
before fitting crystal X1. Make sure D2
is oriented as shown in Fig.4(a).
You can then install the remaining
top-mounted components. Note that
many of the capacitors and inductors in surface-mount packages are
unmarked, so you will need to rely on
the packaging to show what they are
and their value. Mount one component
at a time to avoid mixing them up.
We are using capacitors and a resistor in slightly smaller M2012/0805
packages compared to the M3216/1206
packages we use elsewhere. This
makes it easier to avoid accidentally
making solder bridges to adjacent components when fitting them.
It is also possible to lose components, so be careful and, if possible, get spares. SMD resistors and
Fig.3: the UHF-to-IR Converter PCB uses a pre-built UHF receiver module
(RX1) to pick up the signals from the transmitter, then microcontroller
IC1 adds modulation at a frequency adjustable by VR1, and drives
onboard infrared LED1 plus an external LED when plugged in via CON3.
It can run directly from a 5V USB source via CON2 or 9-12V DC from
barrel socket CON1, regulated to 5V by linear regulator REG1.
UHF-to-IR Converter V2
36
Practical Electronics | January | 2023
capacitors are generally very cheap
and sold in useful sets which are well
worth investing in.
Incidentally, we recommend that
you mount the 68nH inductor after
fitting the 12pF and 5pF capacitors;
otherwise, you might accidentally
desolder this inductor.
Now turn your attention to the
underside of the PCB. There are two
18pF capacitors, one 1kW resistor
and diode D1. Take care to position
the diode correctly, with the cathode
stripe, as shown in Fig.4(b). Note that
the resistor might not be required, so
leave it off for the moment.
If you want to be sure that the
components have been soldered correctly, you can trace the connections
to the other sections of the PCB to
where there should be continuity.
For example, pin 3 of IC1 should provide a low resistance reading to pin 3
of IC2. Additionally, check that there
are no short circuits between component pins on the PCB that shouldn’t
be connected.
Pull-up or pull-down
As mentioned, the handheld remote
control might drive its output high
or low to turn the IR LED on. The
way the LED is driven determines
whether you need to install the 1kW
pull-down resistor. The internal
pull-up within IC1 is automatically
activated if the pull-down resistor
is not fitted.
To determine this, first you will
need to open the remote control case.
Some remote cases are secured using
screws that are easy to spot, but they
also could be hidden under the cells.
Open the battery compartment and
remove the cells to check for screws.
Once these are out, open the case
by gently working around the sides
Before mounting the IR-to-UHF
Converter inside a remote, you will
need to check whether a pull-down
resistor is needed.
with a thin implement to separate
the two halves.
Once inside, locate the positive and
negative battery terminals. To check
whether the resistor is needed, it is
just a matter of making some measurements with a multimeter.
First, check the resistance between
the battery’s positive terminal and the
anode (+) of the LED. If it is low (less
than 30W), you can expect that the pulldown resistor is not needed. That is
because the cathode of the LED would
be pulled down to power the LED.
If the resistance between the cathode
(–) of the LED and the negative battery
terminals is low (less than 30W), that
means the LED drive is active-high, so
the 1kW pull-down resistor is needed.
After the pull-down resistor is soldered in place (if needed), the assembled PCB can be mounted in the remote’s
case. The IR LED should be removed.
Wire up the supply connections: ‘+’
to the +3V on the remote, GND to the
0V terminal and IN to the LED drive
pin on the remote’s IC (eg, to the pad
where the LED was soldered). You
might need to trace out the PCB to figure out which one to connect.
Now place the PCB in a suitable
spare space within the remote. Next,
solder the antenna wire, and route
this around the case in a position
where it will not be caught when it
is reassembled.
Note that while we specify a 170mm
length of antenna wire, the transmission range does not suffer significantly if it is shortened. We found that
a 53mm length of antenna wire only
reduced the range by 5m compared to
the 170mm length.
Finally, clip the case together and
reinstall the securing screws if they
were present.
These two photos show the top and bottom of the
IR-to-UHF PCB at approximately triple actual size.
Fig.4 (right): the IR-to-UHF converter PCB is packed so it can fit inside just about any
remote control case. Don’t worry too much about bridging the pins of IC1 and IC2 when
soldering them as that can be fixed quite easily using solder wick and flux paste, but
do be careful to orient those ICs correctly and don’t mix them up. The 68nH inductor
is minuscule, so be careful not to lose it. After soldering it, check for a low resistance
reading between the antenna terminal and left end of the 12pF capacitor.
Practical Electronics | January | 2023
37
Parts List – Remote Control Range Extender
IR-to-UHF Converter
1 double-sided PCB coded 15109212, 15mm x 12mm, from the PE PCB Service
1 13.56MHz surface-mount crystal (X1) [RS Components 171-0468]
2 220nH 500MHz inductors, M1005/0402 SMD (L1) [RS 741-3797]
1 68nH 1.2GHz inductor, M0602/0201 SMD (L2) [element14 3386563]
1 170mm length of light-duty hook-up wire (for the antenna)
1 200mm-length of red hook-up wire
1 200mm-length of green hook-up wire
1 200mm-length of blue hook-up wire
Semiconductors
1 PIC10LF322-I/OT 8-bit microcontroller programmed with 1510921M.HEX,
SOT-23-6 (IC1) [download from the January 2023 page of the PE website:
(https://bit.ly/pe-downloads]
1 MICFR113YM6 ASK UHF transmitter chip, SOT-23-6 (IC2) [RS 177-3314P]
1 1A SMD diode, DO-214AC (D1) [SM4004 or GS1G; Altronics Y0174,
Jaycar ZR1003]
1 BAT54S ➊ small signal schottky diode, SOT-23 (D2) [Altronics Y0075]
➊ BAT54, BAT54S, BAT54C, BAT54FILMY and BAT54SFIMLY are all suitable
Capacitors (all SMD M2012/0805 size ceramic)
1 1μF 16V X7R (preferred) or Y5V [Altronics R8650]
2 100nF 50V X7R (preferred) or Y5V [Altronics R8638]
2 18pF 50V C0G/NP0 [Altronics R8533]
1 12pF 50V C0G/NP0 [Altronics R8527]
1 4.7pF or 5pF 50V C0G/NP0 [Altronics R8512]
Resistors
1 1kW SMD M2012/0805 ⅛W (might not be required; see text) [Altronics
R1220]
1 10kW to 470kW ¼W axial leaded resistor (for testing)
UHF-to-IR Converter
1 double-sided PCB coded 15109211, 79 x 47mm, from the PE PCB Service
1 UB5 Jiffy box, 83 x 54 x 31mm
1 lid label, 78 x 49mm
1 433.92MHz receiver module (RX1) [eg, Jaycar ZW3102, Altronics Z6905A]
1 PCB-mount barrel socket to suit plugpack (CON1)
1 micro-USB SMD Type-B USB socket (CON2) [Jaycar PS0922, Altronics
P1309]
1 3.5mm PCB-mount switched jack socket (CON3) [Jaycar PS0133,
Altronics P0092]
1 8-pin DIL IC socket (for IC1)
1 170mm-length of light-duty hookup wire
1 10kW miniature horizontal trimpot (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F617-I/P 8-bit microcontroller, DIP-8, programmed with
1510921A.hex (IC1) [download from the January 2023 page of the PE
website: (https://bit.ly/pe-downloads]
1 78L05 5V 100mA linear regulator, TO-92 (REG1)
1 3mm infrared LED (LED1)
1 3mm red LED (LED2)
1 1N4004 400V 1A diode (D1)
Capacitors
2 100μF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100nF 63V MKT polyester
Resistors (all ¼W 1% thin film axial)
2 1kW
2 220W
1 4.7W
Optional parts for extended IR transmitter lead
1 3.5mm mono jack plug
1 1m length of single-core screened cable
1 3mm infrared LED
1 100mm length of 3mm diameter heatshrink tubing
UHF-to-IR Converter assembly
The companion UHF-to-IR Converter
is built on a double-sided PCB coded
38
151009211 that measures 79 x 47mm
and is available from the PE PCB Service. This clips neatly into an 83 x
54 x 31mm UB5 plastic utility box.
A 78 x 49mm lid panel label can be
attached to this.
Now is the time to program this IC1
– the code is available for download
from the January 2023 page of the PE
website: https://bit.ly/pe-downloads
Fig.5 shows the parts layout for
this board. Start with the micro USB
socket, which is surface-mounted.
Align the solder pads with the leads
on the connector and solder one of the
mounting tabs to the PCB.
Re-check the alignment of the small
signal pins before soldering the signal pins and then the remaining tabs.
The solder on the mounting tab can be
remelted, and the connector realigned
if it is not correct.
Check the signal pins for solder
bridges; if you find any, clear them
using solder wick. Make sure the pins
are still soldered to the PCB.
Now fit the resistors. The resistor
colour codes can be used as a guide
to their values but checking the resistances with a multimeter is always a
good idea.
Next, mount diode D1, ensuring it is
correctly oriented. The capacitors can
go in next; only the two 100μF electrolytics are polarised. As well as ensuring their longer leads go to the pads
marked with ‘+’ symbols, they must
be bent over to clear the lid when the
PCB is mounted in its case.
REG1 can then be mounted, followed by the DC socket (CON1), the
3.5mm jack socket (CON2) and trimpot VR1 (set it mid-way now). Next, fit
the UHF receiver (RX1), making sure
it goes in the right way around.
Installing the LEDs
LED1 must be mounted at full lead
length (25mm) so that later it can be
bent over and its lens pushed through
a hole in the side of the box (above
the 3.5mm socket). LED2 is mounted
with the top of its lens 20mm above
the PCB surface. Make sure the LEDs
are oriented correctly, with their
anode (longer) leads going to the pads
marked ‘A’.
Now solder in an 8-pin DIL socket
for IC1, but do not plug the PIC micro
in at this stage. That step comes later
after the power supply has been tested.
Complete the PCB assembly by fitting
the 170mm-long antenna wire made
from insulated hookup wire.
Final assembly
The PCB simply clips into the integral
ribs of the UB5 case. Before doing this,
you need to drill holes in the case ends
for the USB socket, the DC socket, the
3.5mm socket and the two LEDs. The
drilling diagrams are shown in Fig.6.
Practical Electronics | January | 2023
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►
The IR LED in the remote is replaced
with our IR-to-UHF PCB. This PCB
can then be covered with
heatshrink and placed
in the remote’s
housing.
The DC socket hole can be drilled
first. This is positioned 6.5mm down
from the top lip of the base at the lefthand end.
Start this hole using a small pilot
drill, then carefully enlarge it to 6.5mm
using a tapered reamer. The 3.5mm
socket hole is centred along the horizontal axis at the other end of the case,
10.5mm down from the lip. Again, use
a pilot drill to start it, then enlarge it
to 6.5mm.
The hole for LED1 can then be
drilled 3.5mm down from the lip,
directly above the socket hole. Drill
this hole to 3mm, then drill a similar hole for LED2 about 12mm to the
right. The rectangular USB cut-out can
be first drilled and then filed to shape
with needle files.
Now clip the PCB into the slots
in the side ribs of the box (push the
3.5mm jack socket into its hole first).
Once it’s in place, bend the two LEDs
over and push them through their
respective holes in the adjacent end.
Secure the assembly by fitting the nut
to the jack socket.
The lid label can be downloaded
(in PDF format) from the January 2023
The UHF-to-IR PCB can
be mounted inside a UB5
case and placed near the
receiving device. You will
need to drill holes in the
UB5 case for the sockets and
LEDs, as shown in Fig.6.
page of the PE website: (https://bit.ly/
pe-downloads) printed onto a suitable
label and affixed to the lid. The four
corner holes for the case screws can
be cut out using a sharp hobby knife.
Making an extension cable
Depending on how your gear is
arranged, you may want to make up a
cable with a 3.5mm jack plug at one
end and an external IR LED at the
other. Fig.7 shows the details. You
will need to use a suitable length of
single-core shielded cable, while the
LED leads should be insulated from
each other using heatshrink tubing.
The front panel
label for the Remote
Control Range
Extender can be
downloaded as a
1-1 scale PDF from
the January 2023
page of the PE
website: (https://bit.
ly/pe-downloads).
Fig.5: the assembly of this board is straightforward as the components are much larger than on the other board. Watch
the orientations of the UHF receiver, IC1 and diode D1.
Practical Electronics | January | 2023
39
Fig.6: shown here are the holes that
need to be drilled or cut in the UB5
Jiffy box. The hole for the jack socket
in the right-hand end of the box can
be left out if you aren’t using the IR
extension lead, and similarly, you only
need to make one hole in the left-hand
end, depending on whether you will
be using the USB or barrel socket to
supply power.
Fig.7: if you need to mount the IR
LED away from the receiver unit
(eg, mounting it directly in front
of the appliance’s receiver), you
can make up an extension cable as
shown here. It plugs directly into
the socket on the receiver.
►
Testing
First, check that IC1 has not been
installed. Apply power and check
there is 5V between pins 1 and 8 of
the IC socket. If not, verify the supply
polarity and ensure that D1 and REG1
are correctly oriented.
If you measure 5V, switch off and
install IC1 with its notched end
towards the adjacent 100nF capacitor.
Now reapply power and check that the
red acknowledge LED flashes when the
remote control buttons are pressed.
Next, test the appliance. The UHFto-IR Converter needs to have its IR
LED pointing towards the appliance at
a range of about 1m. If it doesn’t work,
adjust VR1 as you operate the remote
control until the appliance responds.
Usually, setting VR1 mid-way (corresponding to a carrier frequency of
around 37kHz) will be suitable.
Once it’s operating correctly, try
using the remote to control the appliance from another room. You should
get a free-air range of 20-25m, but the
range will be less than this inside a
house, depending on any obstacles
(walls, doors, furniture and so on)
between the remote and the UHFto-IR Converter.
►
Use a length of larger diameter heatshrink tubing to cover the end of the
cable, including both LED leads and
part of the lens, as shown below.
Reproduced by arrangement with
SILICON CHIP magazine 2022.
www.siliconchip.com.au
An extension cable can be made and attached to the UHFto-IR Converter via the 3.5mm jack socket (CON3); Fig.7
has the details for how to design this cable.
40
Practical Electronics | January | 2023
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