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Would you like to keep your home or business under 24/7 surveillance . . . from wherever you are (anywhere in the world!)? Choosing, setting up and using IP Security Cameras Wireless (IP) surveillance cameras, which operate over the internet, are incredibly common, come in a wide range of prices and are relatively simple to install and operate. With a ’net or mobile phone connection, you can see what’s going on in your home or backyard – wherever you are – and even get a warning if the camera spots an intruder! M any computer users, even those with a lot of experience, don’t have any idea on where to start with these versatile devices. They remember the bad old days, where installing a home security system was indeed a lot of hassle (particularly the wiring-in phase) and even when operating, often resulted in false alarms and more neighbourhood angst. The days of running wires are so passé, with wireless systems now in vogue – but how many times have you heard an alarm sounding and thought “there’s someone’s alarm going off . . .” – but done nothing about it? Many alarm systems don’t even scare off intruders for that very reason: everyone will think it’s a false alarm! Enter camera security (often temporarily) “in the cloud”, which will be overwritten if not required after, say, a week or so. Some are always on while others are triggered by detecting movement. Others use traditional home security triggering methods (beams, magnetic switches, pressure sensors etc) or even a combination of types. The usual laws of purchase normally apply – the more you pay, the more features you’ll get. But that’s not always the case – there are quite a few cameras out there that are real bargains and offer quite exceptional features and performance! But as we said earlier, many people think that setting such a system up has got to be (a) difficult, (b) expensive or (c) requires a lot of computer know-how. This article should help to dispel those three myths. Indeed, we hope to show you it is as simple as a-b-c! Now there’s a much better option – security or surveillance cameras which operate via the internet so you can keep an “eye” on your property 24 hours a day, 7 days Choosing a camera There’s an enormous range of cameras (and prices) a week, regardless of where you are. Depending on the software driving them, many have the available out there. We’ve shown a few on the following pages. Some of the things to look for are: ability to detect and report intruders and just as importantly, record video for later analysis. (a) Resolution – full HD cameras usually Some record locally, for example on a By Ross Tester cost more than standard definition. But if micro-SD card in the camera; others store siliconchip.com.au March 2015  15 At left is the Jaycar QC3831 IP Camera, mounted inside a weatherproof dome but under the eaves for complete protection. The power cable conveniently runs above the eave. Top right is the view you get through the camera, here displayed on YAWCAM (see later in this feature). At right is a similar image, using an EasyN camera and the EasyN Android app, accessed via the internet on a Samsung smartphone. You can tilt and pan the camera by swiping the smartphone screen from anywhere your phone has ’net access – even across the globe! you want to identify faces, you want HD. We’ve all seen those awful, grainy old CCTV pictures on TV, where you can almost work out that it is a person but there’s no hope of identifying a face! With modern cameras (including much improved lenses and optics), those days are thankfully well gone. run a power cable which might not be convenient (will the cable reach from the power supply?)! Some cameras, even wireless ones, offer PoE (power over Ethernet) but this still requires a cable to be run. We’ve also seen some solar-panel-powered models which might solve some difficult installation problems. (b) Protection – is the camera really designed for 24/7 outside use where it is exposed to the elements, or is it more intended for either internal use or at worst, mounted in a protected position outside (eg, under the eaves)? It will normally have a high “IP” rating to tell you what it suits. (See the panel “what does IP mean” elsewhere in this article). You’ll normally find exposed-use cameras cost quite a bit more than inside or protected cameras. (f) Operating system – Most cameras should have crossplatform support but there are exceptions. A few cameras are designed to operate on Android and/or Apple only, which is a problem if you only have Windows. Make sure the camera you select operates with your PC (or is equipped for all – fortunately, most are these days). In any case, you should be able to find third-party software – Ispy, for example – which should let a camera work with your PC. (c) Night vision – Most (but definitely not all) cameras these days are equipped with LEDs (usually infrared) to give a picture at night. Some even claim they work down to 0 lux – that’s complete darkness, not even starlight! And so they might but at what range? And how good is the night picture? Most will switch to B&W at night but for some, the image suffers significantly as well. Will it be good enough to identify an intruder? (g) Features – This might seem self-explanatory but you need to know what features it (or its software) offers, such as whether the camera offers remote pan/tilt control, movement detection and/or auto notification as mentioned earlier. But there are other factors to consider – do your own research. (d) Audio – Is there an inbuilt microphone (or provision for an external one) to also pick up voices or animal sounds? It might be important. (h) Colour or mono – Most security cameras these days are colour, though the picture quality varies significantly. However, there are still plenty of mono cameras around so if you want colour, make sure it says so! Very few cameras stay in colour mode under low light (or when illuminating with their own LEDs). (e) Ease of installation – We’re not just talking ease of mounting (though that is important), we’re also thinking about power supply. If it’s a wireless system, that only means the data side is wireless – you usually still have to (i) Price – We’ve left this until last. We’ve seen “wireless cameras” advertised online for absolutely ridiculous prices (eg, sub $5) but beware, these are usually fake cameras which contain nothing inside the dome or housing (they’re 16  Silicon Chip siliconchip.com.au used to imply you have a camera – sort-of like the good old days when you installed an empty alarm box and put signs on the windows!). There’s also another neat scam where you click on a camera at a real bargain price, only to find you’re buying a tiny part of it (eg, the antenna!). “Oh, you want the camera as well? Click here” (another $50 or $100!). You might find a bargain wireless camera which is dependent on your also buying not-so-cheap “cloud storage”. And also be careful of “wireless cameras” which on closer examination aren’t – not IP wireless (WiFi), that is. In fact, they aren’t even computer camers – they are oldstyle CCTV cameras, designed to feed into a video monitor or recorder! (Some might use a wireless link to get back to the monitor/recorder but will not be able to access the internet; ie, they’re not “IP” cameras). OK, what should you pay? Depending on where you purchase, you can easily pay several hundred dollars for a top-of-the-line, all-singing alldancing wireless IP security camera; however the majority of cameras start at about $50 online – some even including postage (from China, of course!). In a bricks-and-mortar store, you can usually expect up to double this for entry-level cameras. But buying over-thecounter from a store has several advantages – you can see exactly what you’re getting, you (usually) have a moneyback or at least exchange guarantee. And more often than not, there is someone in the store who is knowledgeable about the devices and can give you some good advice and guidance if you need it. You certainly won’t get most of those advantages buying online. So the choice is yours – save some money or save some anxiety! Remember too the value of the assets you are trying to protect: is saving a few dollars worth risking many tens (or even hundreds) of thousands of dollars? Location, location, location The first law of real estate also applies to security cameras: where you set it/them up. Basically, it’s common sense, Let’s look at a few necessaries: (1) Unobstructed view This goes for what the camera lens “sees” and the path for the wireless signal. You want a location which gives the best possible view. Sometimes it’s necessary to compromise a little but if there are obstacles in the field of vision, intruders could use these to hide their approach. Choose what you want to view carefully – external doors and windows are obvious but what about the Rolls-Royce in the garage? Hey, we’ve even heard of some people putting in a wireless camera solely to keep an eye on their pets while they’re at work! If there is anything solid in the path between the camera antenna and router, that could also be a problem for the wireless path. This especially applies to both brick walls and bushes/trees, which may not be too much of a problem in dry weather but can form very effective wireless shields when they are wet. One way to check this is with a wireless network device (eg, smartphone or tablet). If the signal suffers where you siliconchip.com.au Jaycar QC3834 This pan & tilt camera is actually shown upsidedown – it would normally be hanging on the bracket supplied. 0 lux illumination (up to 15m), 640 x 480 resolution and up to 50m line-of-sight WiFi range. Supports iPhone, iPad, Android smartphone and monitor. Currently reduced from $119.00. 9900 $ Fixed Indoor Dome (Jaycar QC3831) Totally housed within a dome for protection; complete with 22 I/R LEDs for night viewing. Fixed aim only (ie no pan/tilt) even though it looks as though it can! 640 x 480 resolution <at> 30fps, 60° viewing angle and has motion detection and remote warning. Access through a web browser (requires IE) or an iPhone/Android app. 7900 $ Outdoor Wired/Wireless (Jaycar QC3836) Designed for outdoor use, complete with mounting bracket (not shown). Quick and easy setup, 640 x 480 resolution. Protective shroud shields camera and ring of IR LEDs for night viewing. (0 lux, up to 20m). Supports DDNS, which means you can access your camera through a fixed domain even if your external IP address constantly changes. (NB – reduced from $149, stock limited in some stores). 11900 $ TREK Ai-Ball (Jaycar QC3368) Get it? Ai-Ball? At just 100g and 30mm diam. x 35mm long, it’s the smallest wireless IP camera we’ve ever seen – even small enough to carry on your keychain! VGA (640 x 480) quality, powered by a single CR2 battery (or optional 5V supply*) and operates on WiFi (802.11b/g) via an internal antenna. See much more info at $ 95 www.ai-ball.com 99 *Optional cradle and stand with 5V power supply also available: QC3369 <at> $29.90 March 2015  17 EasyN 640 x 480 (Altronics S9012) Full remote viewing capability (with pan and tilt) over internet browser or smartphone. The camera features an embedded IR-Cut filter and an integrated network video recording system. Easy plug’n’play set up! 300,000 pixel sensor. As well as security applications, makes a great baby or pet monitor. 802.11b/g wireless and will support four viewers at one time. Includes microphone for audio monitoring and a power supply. want to put the camera, find another location. (2) Out of reach of intruders or vandals! You don’t want your camera to be put out of action because it can be reached. Even if it sends an alarm when tampered with (some do), a smashed or disconnected camera could still mean you’ve lost vision (some high end ones may well keep recording to their own memory card). Also ensure there is nothing left around (a wheelie bin, for example) which might assist as a climbing aid for some cretin with a brick or a pair of cutters! (Put the bricks away, too . . .) 89 $ 95 EasyN Pan/Tilt (Altronics S9014) A home surveillance IP camera with remote pan and tilt control. Easy plug-n-play setup allows you to view remotely in just minutes on most WiFi networks. High quality 720P resolution and H.264 compressed video. An SD card slot is on board for direct recording of footage. Speaker output and mic input available plus alarm trigger I/O terminals. 355° pan and 120° tilt. Includes power supply. 175 $ IP65 Waterproof Aluminium (Altronics S9022) With 1.0MP resolution (up to 1280 x 720), significantly higher than most cameras, it uses H.264/MJPEG compression to provide excellent picture quality and minimal storage requirements. IP65 rated for outside use, infrared LEDs provide nighttime coverage up to 15m, and it will pan 355° and tilt 90°. Wireless suits 802.11b/g/n systems. Has alarm notification, FTP snapshot upload and event recording to TF card, operates on Microsoft Windows (XP, Vista, 7). AVTECH ETS (Altronics S9800) A top-of-the-line vandal-proof day/night IP camera with infrared illumination (zero lux, up to 30m or 50m in enhanced mode). Can be used in wide-angle or telephoto modes. With a massive 2.0MP resolution, you’ll not only recognise faces but count the freckles! Note: not a wireless camera (connects to a standard RJ45 ethernet connection with PoE [power over ethernet]) and supports multiple streams up to 10 clients. Yes, it is more expensive than most . . . but if you want the best . . . 18  Silicon Chip 235 $ (3) Unobtrusive If at all possible (and it often isn’t), try not to advertise the fact that you have a camera (unless you really do want the neighbourhood to know, perhaps as a deterrent). Often, it’s best that the first thing an intruder knows about your system is when they hear those magic words, “You’re nicked, sunshine!” (4) Ease of cabling As we mentioned earlier, even wireless IP cameras need to be powered. Some locations make it difficult, if not impossible, to get cables through. And Murphy’s Law will always ensure that the best location is about half-a-metre too far from the power source! If power is a real problem, consider a solar-panel and battery-powered system. You’ll pay more but that might be a good investment. (5) Not looking into the sun Apart from the fact that the camera could be “blind” for a good part of the day, direct sunshine into the lens will almost certainly damage the sensor over time (and sometimes a very short time). Remember too that the path of the sun changes over the course of a year! (6) Consider the legalities The law regarding the use of a webcam is very much the same as using any camera (still or movie). Setting up a security camera on your own property is generally quite legal, especially if it is pointing into your own yard, or even out into the street or other public place. Even setting up a camera on a neighbour’s property, with their permission, aimed back at your place should be quite OK. Where you may run foul of the law is if, for example, your camera might be aimed at a neighbour’s house (even inadvertently – beware auto pan and tilt cameras!) and records images from their bedroom or bathroom. Then (for example in NSW) you could be in breach of Division 15B of the NSW Crimes Act 1900 (specifically section 91). This follows somewhat similar legislation in Queensland (Section 227A(2)). You may also breach Privacy Legislation where children are involved, even in a public place. However, the restrictions are quite narrow and specific (much more than most people believe). What about the audio recording? $ 665 One other point: if your camera includes a microphone, then any speech recorded could come (in NSW, other states have similar) under section 7(1) of the Surveillance Devices Act 2007 No 64, which prohibits the recording of private siliconchip.com.au What if you don’t have an IP cam? Within reason, you don’t need one . . . that is, if your PC has a built-in camera. And these days, most tablets and laptops do! You can even use a spare Apple or Android phone for the same thing – it’s not easy to find a phone in the last decade or so that doesn’t have a camera built in! You can aim the camera in your device in the direction you want to view. Your PC or phone will possibly have come with software loaded to allow you to use it as a webcam; going one step further and getting it on the net is relatively simple. One caveat: you need to be able to stop your PC or phone “going to sleep”; in some cases, this may not be possible. Read your instruction manual (or make an appointment with Dr Google) to check. Windows Smartphone/Tablets If your PC doesn’t have webcam software, you can download one of the many freebie webcam packages available on the net. As an example, we’re using a Java webcam app called YAWCAM. That, by the way, stands for Yet Another Webcam! It’s certainly not a new package (I believe it first came out about 2003; the latest version [0.4.1] is February 2013) but it’s simple to use and offers quite a range of features. Your new best friend Google may find one that suits you even better but we’ll stick with YAWCAM for the moment. And we’ll get to Apple/Android phones shortly. The 4.5MB YAWCAM download suits all iterations of Windows from 2000, including XP, Vista and Windows 7 & 8. You will also need Java Runtime Environment (JRE) 6 or later, DirectX 9 or later and Windows Media Player 9 or later. Your machine is very likely to have these already; if not or if you need to update, these are all free downloads – for JRE go to https://java.com/download and for the Windows software there are numerous sites for download including Microsoft/Windows. Best of all, as I said before, YAWCAM is free – though the author does ask for a donation to cancer research if you find YAWCAM useful. Log on to www.yawcam.com and select the Download tab from the list on the left side. It’s an advert-supported site so clicking on any other download icon could have you marrying some lovely Russian model! Once downloaded, click on and install the app. You can use any camera in or attached to your web-connected PC then publish the live video via the web. First make sure the camera you want to use is installed correctly with appropriate drivers (if it is an external webcam, these would have been supplied with the camera). When you launch YAWCAM, it should detect any webcams you have – either siliconchip.com.au internal or external. Using an Apple (iOS) Smartphone/ Tablet We’ll start with an Apple (iOS) device. You’ll need to download the appropriate app – for iOS, try the Wireless Camera app from the App Store. It will cost you heaps: $US2.00! One of the beauties of an IP cam is It uses the iOS built-in that you can be on the other side of Web Server function to the world (as long as you have ’net start a website on your access) – this one’s in Sweden. local network. Download, install and then open Wireless Camera. The default “Interval” and “Maximum Images” settings should be fine but you can tweak them if you wish. All that’s left is to make sure “Motion Detection”, “Add Timestamp” and “Enabled” are all checked and your webcam will start sending what it sees. This can be viewed on any browser in your local network by pointing it to the local IP address, which the app will give you when you start streaming. Viewing from anywhere else (ie, a remote browser) is a little more complicated; the router’s “Network Address Translation” and “Port Forwarding” features need to be set up to ensure than any incoming request is directed towards the iOS phone. You’ll need to access the router’s set-up to do this; refer to the instructions that came with your router. Using an Android A different app is required for Android devices. We like Motion Detector Pro, a 766kB download available from Google Play (simply search for the name). As its description says, this app enables you to use your Android device as a remote surveillance camera or spy cam with motion detection functionality. The latest version (1.2.2) enables frontface camera support so you can use either camera if two are fitted. Again, there are many other apps to do the same or similar things – some offer many more features but this can be at the expense of either memory or space. Still, if that’s all you’re doing with the (surplus) phone, that’s no big deal. March 2015  19 conversations without consent. Presumably, that even includes two crooks talking to each other in your backyard – while the video from your webcam is quite OK! While all this might be a grey area, that could change in the future (the world is definitely getting more paranoid). A word to the wise: use the camera for the purpose for which it was intended! Setting it up OK, you’ve gone ahead and purchased one (or more) wireless IP security cameras which look like they’ll suit your purposes. You’ve also chosen the camera location and worked out how to get the power cabling to it. Before you mount the camera, we strongly suggest you get it going at ground level first. As the old proverb says, “there’s many a slip between cup and lip”. Invariably, every wireless IP camera instruction sheet we’ve seen says to set it up using a network (Cat5e) cable before moving on to wireless. That’s good advice because it takes one variable out of the equation. Then, when it all works, flip over to wireless and prove that’s a goer too. That’s not without its pitfalls which is why we’ve prepared a separate “Going Wireless” article elsewhere in this issue. And before you start, read right through the instructions packaged with the camera, even if they’re in Chinglish, so you have at least a reasonable understanding of what’s required. In the vast majority of cases, manufacturers give a website for additional information (though we’re not saying that’s always kosher, either!). As we mentioned earlier, if in doubt AND you purchased over-the-counter, ask your supplier. Example: EasyN Camera Setup Apart from the hassles of translating an instruction sheet to English, (and the uber-tiny print on an A6 page!) EasyN is simple to set up once you get the bugs out. In fact, it is one of the easiest we tried because once you find the right software, it’s all virtually automatic: 1: plug the network cable into your modem/router. 2: connect the power supply 3: download the software from your iPhone/Android store (it’s free), 4: use your smartphone’s camera and QR code software to take a pic of the camera’s QR code (barcode) on your phone. This “fills in all the blanks” so your phone can log onto the right camera. And that’s pretty much it. Of course, it helps if your phone has that QR code software (mine didn’t, so I had to download that too – it’s free) but once loaded, it accepted the image of the barcode without any problem. The smartphone image (as seen on page 16) came up pretty well straight away and I was able to move the pan/ tilt EasyN camera by swiping the screen. Oh, one slight difficulty – on loading, the pan/tilt worked opposite to that shown; ie, you swiped up to go down, left to go right, etc. It was only then that I realised I had the camera sitting on a shelf, so it was effectively upside down! Wireless camera setup Overleaf, we look at how to set up IP cameras using wireless connections. It’s not that difficult – but there are some traps for the unwary. SC Radio, Television & Hobbies: the COMPLETE archive on DVD YES! NA R MO E THA URY ENT QUARTER C NICS O OF ELECTR ! Y R O T IS H This remarkable collection of PDFs covers every issue of R & H, as it was known from the beginning (April 1939 – price sixpence!) right through to the final edition of R, TV & H in March 1965, before it disappeared forever with the change of name to EA. For the first time ever, complete and in one handy DVD, every article and every issue is covered. If you’re an old timer (or even young timer!) into vintage radio, it doesn’t get much more vintage than this. If you’re a student of history, this archive gives an extraordinary insight into the amazing breakthroughs made in radio and electronics technology following the war years. And speaking of the war years, R & H had some of the best propaganda imaginable! Even if you’re just an electronics dabbler, there’s something here to interest you. • Every issue individually archived, by month and year • Complete with index for each year • A must-have for everyone interested in electronics ONLY Please note: this archive is in PDF format on DVD for PC. Your computer will need a DVD-ROM or DVD-recorder (not a CD!) $ and Acrobat Reader 6 or above (free download) to enable you to view this archive. This DVD is NOT playable through a standard A/V-type DVD player. SILICON CHIP Exclusive to 62 00 +$10.00 P&P HERE’S HOW TO ORDER YOUR COPY: BY INTERNET:^ siliconchip.com.au 24 Hours 7 Days <at> BY EMAIL:# silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au 24 Hours 7 Days BY PHONE:* (02) 9939 3295 9-4 Mon-Fri * Please have your credit card handy! # Don ’t forget to include your name, address, phone no and credit card details. 20  Silicon Chip BY FAX:# (02) 9939 2648 24 Hours 7 Days BY MAIL:# PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW 2097 ^ You will be prompted for required information siliconchip.com.au “IP”: What does that mean? We’ve talked about “IP” cameras this month – but do you know what those two letters means? In electronics/computing, they commonly have two meanings – and when referring to security cameras, both are important, especially those to be used outside! (1) Internet Protocol This simply means that it is a device which can be used on and accessed via the internet, because it conforms to the standards used by the internet. The Internet Protocol is part of TCP/IP (Transmission Control Protocol/Internet Protocol) and the terms “IP network” and “TCP/IP” are basically synonymous. IP uses a “packet switched” architecture, in which data are broken up into many smaller “packets”, each one also containing a source address and a destination address. This means the packet is routable – that is, any terminal or node which receives the packet will forward it along until it reaches its destination. The other important point to note is that a temporary loss of data signal will normally mean that most packets will get through. TCP also ensures that missing or corrupted packets are normally re-sent, with error checking built in. The data packets may not arrive in the same order, nor perhaps even via the same route, but are “re-assembled” at the receiving end. As well as being the communications protocol of the public internet, Internet Protocol is also used by many Wide Area Networks (WANs) and most Local Area Networks (LANs). (2) Ingress Protection rating This is an internationally recognised standard, devised by the IEC (International Electrotechnical Commission), and defines just what – both solids and liquids – can or cannot enter a particular device. The device in question will have a code INGRESS PROTECTION RATING consisting of the letters IP followed by two digits – for example, IP65. The first digit, from 0 to 6, refers to protection against solid particle ingress while the second, from 0 to 8, refers to ingress of liquids (usually, specifically, water). The table below shows IP ratings and their meanings. As you can see, the higher the numbers, the better the protection. A device for use inside might have a rating of, say, IP43 – it’s protected against most small objects greater than 1mm in size and can withstand spraying water for five minutes. For outside use, the minimum you would expect is IP65 or IP66 – dust tight and reasonably high pressure water resistant for at least three minutes. Higher ratings (IP67 or IP68) can stand full immersion in water up to 1m (or more). First Digit: 0 1 2 3 4 5 Object Size Protected Against — >50mm >12.5mm >2.5mm >1mm Dust protected 6 Dust tight Effective against No protection against contact and ingress of objects Any large body, such as the back of a hand, but no protection against deliberate contact with a body part Fingers or similar objects Tools, thick wires, etc. Most wires, screws, etc. Ingress of dust is not entirely prevented but it must not enter in sufficient quantity to interfere with the satisfactory operation of the equipment; complete protection against contact No ingress of dust; complete protection against contact Second Digit: Testing for 0 1 Level Protected against Not protected Dripping water Dripping water (vertically falling drops) shall have no harmful effect. Test duration: 10 minutes, Water equivalent to 1mm rainfall per minute 2 Dripping water Vertically dripping water shall have no harmful effect when the enclosure is tilted at an angle of up to 15° from its normal position. Test duration: 10 minutes Water equivalent to 3mm rainfall per minute 3 Spraying water Water falling as a spray at any angle up to 60° from the vertical shall have no harmful effect. Test duration: 5 minutes. Water volume: 0.7 litres per minute. Pressure: 80–100kPa 4 Splashing of water Water splashing against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effect. Test duration: 5 minutes. Water volume: 10 litres per minute. Pressure: 80–100kPa 5 Water jets Water projected by a nozzle (6.3mm) against enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects. Test duration: at least 3 minutes. Water volume: 12.5 litres per minute. Pressure: 30kPa at distance of 3 m 6 Powerful waterjets Water projected in powerful jets (12.5mm nozzle) against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects. Test duration: at least 3 minutes. Water volume: 100 litres per minute. Pressure: 100kPa at distance of 3 m 7 Immersion up to 1m Ingress of water in harmful quantity shall not be possible when the enclosure is immersed in water under defined conditions of pressure and time (up to 1m of submersion). Test duration: 30 minutes. Immersion at depth of at least 1m measured at bottom of device, and at least 150mm measured at top of device 8 Immersion beyond 1m The equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions which shall be specified by the manufacturer. Normally, this will mean that the equipment is hermetically sealed. However, with certain types of equipment, it can mean that water can enter but only in such a manner that it produces no harmful effects. siliconchip.com.au — SC March 2015  21