This is only a preview of the March 2021 issue of Practical Electronics. You can view 0 of the 72 pages in the full issue. Articles in this series:
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Gear to help you brew that perfect beer...
...or anything else that demands a constant temperature
P
recision temperature control
is an integral part of many industrial processes. If you are
interested in making your own brewed
or fermented foods as a hobbyist, you
will find that it’s important to accurately maintain the temperature of the
process to get the best results.
From time to time, we have tried to
make our own cheese, beer and cider
(not at the office, of course!).
For beer, malted barley is fermented
by yeast to create alcohol and develop
flavours. The fermenting activity also
adds effervescence to the finished
product. The fermentation (say, for
home-brew beer or cider) takes place
in a food-grade plastic container. Good
results may be achieved by merely
keeping the vessel in a room where
the temperature does not vary much,
perhaps wrapping it with a blanket in
the cooler months.
But for consistency and to ensure
that fermentation completes correctly
(if it doesn’t, that’s when bottles start
to explode!), you need a way to monitor and control the brew temperature.
Proper temperature regulation is one
reason that commercial breweries can
ensure that each batch of beer tastes
the same as the others.
28
by Tim Blythman and Nicholas Vinen
Even keeping the brew vessel in a
thermostatically controlled room may
not be sufficient. As the fermentation
progresses, the yeast activity rises and
falls. The heat generated varies, which
can alter the temperature of the brew
from the inside, even if the outside
temperature is steady. Thus we need a
means of both measuring and changing
the temperature of the brew.
We have chosen Peltier devices for
this because they have the ability to
both heat and cool; they only require
a low-voltage DC supply, and they are
easy to control. They are not the most
efficient devices, but are adequate for
small scale operations.
Sous-vide cookery
Another application for our Thermal
Regulator is sous-vide cookery. While
the term French sous-vide literally translates to ‘under vacuum’, the
vacuum is not critical. The success
of sous-vide cookery is mostly due to
precise temperature control.
We’ll go into a bit more detail about
this later, but the important thing is that
a tightly controlled temperature leads
to consistent and repeatable results.
By keeping the food hot enough for
long enough, you ensure that any bacteria is killed, and thus it is safe to eat.
Other areas of cookery which work
well with precise temperatures include
the tempering of chocolate. Taking the
chocolate along a well-defined temperature profile alters its structure and
produces a glossy appearance and crisp
texture when the chocolate hardens.
One of the intriguing possibilities
with this device is that you could use
it to keep food at a safe storage temperature (around 4°C, like the inside of a
refrigerator) for many hours and then
at a preset time, heat it up and cook it,
so it is ready for you to eat.
If doing this, we suggest you modify
the software to trigger an alert if the
food temperature went significantly
above 4°C in storage mode, so you
know that it is safe to eat.
And more
Many people who have worked in a
laboratory will be familiar with the
laboratory water bath as a way of keeping test samples at a fixed temperature.
Naturally, the Thermal Regulator is
well suited to this application too.
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
We’ve even joked about using the
Thermal Regulator as a personal airconditioner. Joking aside, the radiator does produce a refreshing breeze
when it’s set to heat, so we reckon it
actually would do that job pretty well.
Thermal Regulator electronics
The Thermal Regulator electronics consists of three main parts. An
Arduino Uno board (or compatible)
provides a microcontroller as well as
some power regulator circuitry.
A Peltier Driver shield (Arduino
add-on board) implements a highpower full H-bridge which is controlled by the Arduino. This is used
to drive the Peltier devices.
A second shield (the Interface
shield) has numerous inputs and
outputs; it is primarily concerned
with sensing what is happening with
the Peltier devices and can also drive
other devices such as pumps and fans.
We’ll expand on these later. You
will need to be familiar with the Arduino IDE to construct this project;
it can be downloaded for free from:
www.arduino.cc/en/software
As this circuitry has so many potential uses, we’ve designed the control
circuit to be as flexible as possible.
Before continuing, you may wish to
read the accompanying panel, which
describes how Peltier devices work.
The inspiration for this article
Thinking about drinks cooler projects gave us the idea for this series
of articles. Coolers can involve quite
a large heatsink and fan attached to
a single Peltier module to try to get
all the waste heat out and keep the
Peltier running efficiently. If you use
several Peltier devices to try to pump
more heat, you end up needing a huge
heatsink. While simple and relatively
cheap, this is not an ideal solution.
Consider, for example, that a car
engine puts out a vast amount of heat
(hundreds of kilowatts in some cases).
While early engines were air-cooled,
most manufacturers quickly moved
to liquid cooling. It is much easier
to remove all that heat with a bit of
water flow, which can then go to a
large radiator with sufficient surface
area to transfer that heat to the air.
So we thought, why not apply the
same principles to Peltier devices?
Small radiators, such those used in
water-cooled computers are now
readily available at modest cost, and
the required fans, pumps and tubing
do not cost much either. We then
bought some parts and performed a
series of experiments which brought
us to develop what we are presenting
in this design.
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
We couldn’t
cram everything onto
one shield for this project, so there
are two! This shield (attached to a Uno board)
is designed to drive Peltier devices at up to 20A in bridge
mode, meaning the current can be reversed and the Peltier can be used to
perform heating or cooling. There’s a number of surface-mounted devices on
this shield, but none of them are too small, so construction is not difficult.
One example
Sous-vide cookery is a good example
to demonstrate what our resulting
hardware can achieve.
As we mentioned, the term ‘sousvide’ translates to ‘under vacuum’.
This term has little to do with the
process except that the items to be
cooked (typically meat, fish or eggs)
are usually vacuum-sealed into a waterproof bag before being immersed in
a temperature-controlled water bath.
A cheap alternative is to use a ‘snaplock’ type sandwich bag. Careful sealing of the bag can ensure that most of
the air is removed before sealing.
The bag has the effect of keeping
the water separate from the food so
Features
• Active cooling and heating
• Controls 200W+ of Peltier devices
• Utilises multiple temperature sensors
• Arduino-based for flexibility
Possible uses
• Cheesemaking
• Beer/wine/cider/kombucha brewing
• Tempering chocolate
• Sous-vide cooking
• Computer cooling
• Laboratory water bath
• Aquariums (especially large tropical)
• Personal air-conditioner
• Improved cooling for laser cutters
that it does not dilute any flavours.
The removal of air by the vacuum
process also means that there are no
air bubbles which might cause the bag
to float to the surface and not be fully
immersed. The aim then is to use the
water bath to achieve a precise food
temperature. For example, a piece of
beef cooked medium rare should have
a core temperature of 60°C.
Immersion in the water bath is a
good way to accurately and consistently hit this target.
Thus our Thermal Regulator needs
to be able to reach and maintain a
steady temperature in a water bath to
be useful in this application; ideally,
it should be capable of heating to well
over 60°C (we hit 75°C+ in testing).
One of the interesting things about
sous-vide cooking is that you can cook
at much lower temperatures than you
might expect, as long as you maintain
that temperature for long enough. This
creates textures and flavours that are
very different from what you get with
regular boiling, baking or frying.
There’s a lot more to sous-vide cookery than this; we simply want to explain
why you might need such a thing as a
precisely controlled water bath.
There are many guides to the sousvide process, and you should do further
research before trying this technique.
We also mentioned that brewing
and fermenting could be enhanced by
implementing accurate temperature
controls. In this case, your brewing
or fermenting vessel can be placed
29
How Peltier devices work
stronger as a higher temperature difference is generated
across the device.
Practical Peltier devices are typically made of semiconductor materials with a finite resistance. As such, they are also
subject to resistive heating due to the current flowing through
them. This is calculated as I2R, so a doubling of current will
result in four times as much dissipation. But the amount of
heat that is pumped is proportional to the current, so Peltier
devices work best when demands on them are modest.
Peltier devices are typically made out of brittle ceramics.
These are necessary to provide electrical insulation while allowing heat to be effectively conducted to the working surfaces.
Safely driving a Peltier
A Peltier device is effectively an electric heat pump with no
moving parts. An electric current through the device causes
heat to move from one side to the other. It consists of one or
multiple junctions of dissimilar metals, across which a voltage
is applied. The general construction of such a device is shown
in the accompanying figure.
The laws of thermodynamics do not allow heat or coldness
to be ‘created’; these are merely a consequence of energy
being moved from one place to another. For example, electric
heaters convert electrical energy to heat energy in a 1:1 ratio.
Unfortunately, the law of entropy means that we must expend
energy to move this heat energy around. Hence the process
cannot be 100% efficient.
The reverse of the Peltier effect is called the Seebeck effect,
where a temperature difference is converted into a voltage. The
energy delivered by that voltage comes from the thermal energy
flowing from the hot side to the cold side. This is the effect
used by temperature-sensing thermocouples and thermopiles.
The Seebeck effect can also be observed in Peltier devices,
although they are not designed with this in mind and so are
not very efficient. For example, if power is applied to a Peltier
device for a few seconds (enough to cause a temperature
difference) and then removed, a voltage can be measured
at the device’s terminals. This is due to the Seebeck effect of
electricity generated from the residual temperature difference.
A Peltier device consists of an array of alternating materials,
resulting in alternating junctions with opposing behaviours.
They are arranged so that heat is transferred from one side
to the other, by keeping each type of junction on its own side.
You may well be familiar with Peltier devices in small drinks
chillers – ‘miniature fridges’ used to help get drink cans cold.
What you might not realise is that these fridges can (in theory)
also be used as heaters because one upside of the Peltier
effect is that it is reversible. If the direction of the current is
reversed, then the heat flows in the opposite direction.
If you have used this type of cooler then you’ll know they do
a fair job, but most are no competition for a regular household
refrigerator or air-conditioner, which use a compressor and do
not suffer from the side-effects noted below.
While Peltiers have the benefit of reversibility and no
moving parts, they do have their downsides. In particular,
the materials which provide the strongest Peltier effect are
not good thermal insulators; in effect, the heat can leak
from the hot side back to the cold side. This effect becomes
inside the water bath, such that the
temperature-controlled water practically surrounds it.
Having the bath itself being inside
a well-insulated container (we used
30
Rapid changes in current can cause a temperature gradient;
the resulting temperature changes can create thermal stress
and even cracking. Using techniques like PWM (pulse-width
modulation) to modulate the current must be done carefully to
avoid damage. At the very least, the PWM frequency should
be high enough to sidestep these effects.
Many Peltier device manufacturers specify that low ripple
power (of the order 5-10%) should be supplied to the devices.
For optimal results, a pure DC voltage should be applied.
There is another reason to avoid PWM. Consider the case
of pure 6V DC being applied to a Peltier device compared to
12V DC at a 50% duty cycle. When we look at the I2R losses,
we can see that these are doubled in the 12V case. Although
the 50% duty cycle means power is applied half the time,
double the voltage means that the I2R effect is quadrupled.
Our Peltier Driver shield has been designed with these
factors in mind. It delivers nearly pure variable DC across
the full range of positive and negative voltages, allowing both
heating and cooling. This also has the effect of making the
power source’s life a lot easier!
A Peltier device is usually made from an array of semiconductors which are electrically connected in series, but
thermally in parallel due to the way the interconnectors are
arranged. This way, when a voltage is applied, heats flows
from one side to the other, depending on the voltage polarity.
(Image source: http://bit.ly/pe-mar21-peltier)
a small foam cooler for our experiments) reduces the demands on the
Peltier devices and it has the further
advantage of minimising external effects such as drafts.
The Peltier Driver shield
Fig.1 shows the circuit of the Peltier
Driver shield. As mentioned earlier,
it is based on a high-power H-bridge.
DC power is fed in via terminal block
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
12V INPUT
1
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F1 25A
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SC THERMAL
Thermal
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PELTIER
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SHIELD
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ARDUINO UNO
UNO,,
DUINOTECH CLASSIC,
FREETRONICS ELEVEN
OR COMPATIBLE
D
D1
1N4148
A
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TYPE B
D
Q1
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S
1N4148
A
2020
K
Fig.1: the Peltier Driver shield has four MOSFETs in an H-bridge configuration (Q1-Q4), an LC
filter to smooth the voltage across the Peltier devices and one HIP4082 bridge driver (IC1). Its
control pins can go to different Arduino pins depending on the settings of links LK1-LK4.
CON2 and fuse F1, then to optional
12V regulator REG1.
REG1 is only needed if the supply
voltage is above 15V, as many Arduino
boards cannot sustain more than 15V
at their VIN pin.
Otherwise, REG1 can be linked out
or omitted entirely if 12V is available
from one of the other attached boards.
The regulated 12V power (from whichever source) is also fed to the VDD pin
(pin 12) of IC1, an H-bridge MOSFET
driver IC. It also has a maximum VDD
of 15V, although it can control a bridge
which handles up to 80V.
IC1 has its control inputs fed from
jumper links LK1-LK4. These allow
IC1’s input pins to be connected in
different combinations to various
PWM-capable pins on an Uno board.
Two 10kΩ pull-down resistors ensure
that the pins are in safe states (with the
H-bridge shut down) when the Uno is
in reset or not programmed.
The 1.8kΩ resistor connected to
IC1’s DEL pin (pin 5) sets the turn-on
delay and thus the dead-time of the
MOSFETs to around 200ns.
Diodes D1 and D2, and their associated 100nF capacitors form the
‘bootstrap’ circuits which provide high
enough voltages to drive the gates of
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
high-side MOSFETs Q2 and Q4, using the output square waves to form a
charge pump.
IC1 also has its own 100nF supply
bypass capacitor.
MOSFETs Q1-Q4 are four IRLB8314
N-channel types, arranged in an Hbridge configuration. These can switch
30V at over 100A with sufficient cooling, although the current is limited by
other parts of the circuit, such as PCB
tracks and connectors.
Using an H-bridge means that the
direction of current flow can be reversed, and the duty cycle can also be
controlled by rapidly switching the
H-bridge between two states.
The driver (IC1) is needed because
the high-side MOSFETs are N-channel
varieties. Thus their gates need to
be taken above their source pins, ie,
above the supply rail; the bootstrap
circuit provides the means to do this.
The driver also ensures that the MOSFET gate capacitances can be charged
and discharged rapidly to provide a
high PWM frequency so that we can
filter it to get a smooth voltage across
the Peltiers.
The MOSFETs’ low on-resistance
of around 2.4mΩ means that minimal
heatsinking is required; at modest
currents (up to about 20A), the PCB
itself provides sufficient heatsinking.
Between the output of the H-bridge
and the output connector (CON1) is an
LC low-pass filter comprising a 3.3µH
inductor L1 and a 10µF multi-layer
ceramic capacitor. This arrangement
forms a sort of crude ‘buck’ DC/DC
step-down converter.
When a high enough frequency
PWM signal is applied to the control
inputs of IC1 (around 300kHz), the
output is effectively DC. This also
means that the current drawn from
the nominally 12V rail is effectively
DC, so no bulky bypass capacitors are
required on the board.
One way of analysing this circuit
is to assume that the Peltier devices
have an effective resistance of around
1Ω (12A <at> 12V).
We can then calculate that the
300kHz PWM signal is attenuated by
a factor of 100 (around 40dB) and so
the ripple is kept well below the recommended 5%.
This shield is suitable in any case
where variable, relatively smooth
high-current unregulated DC power
is required.
The part chosen for L1 in our prototype has an 19A rating, but even if
31
+12VS
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100
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IRX1
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1
2
3
4
5
6
LEDS
UNDER
CON6
AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR
+5V
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A4/SDA
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A2
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A1
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GND
GND
+5V
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3x
4.7k
10
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IC1
74HC4053
SA
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ARDUINO UNO,
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SC THERMAL
Thermal
Regulator
Interface
Shield
REGULATOR
INTERFACE
SHIELD
2020
Fig.2: the Interface shield monitors up to five thermistors, and it can drive several auxiliary 12V devices which may
be required, including fans and pumps. Multiplexer IC1 allows through analogue inputs to sense six temperature
sensors, as some analogue inputs are reserved for I2C serial communications.
this is upgraded, the PCB traces and
connectors max out at around 20A.
The MOSFETs limit the supply voltage to 30V.
Interface shield
The Interface shield (circuit shown in
Fig.2) connects to up to six temperature
sensors, can drive up to three PWMcapable fans and two small pumps.
One of the temperature sensors is a
DS18B20 fitted to the PCB to sense ambient temperature; the remaining five
channels suit either DS18B20 digital
sensors or low-cost NTC thermistors
(via CON1-CON5).
32
The shield also provides three status
LEDs (red, green and blue), a buzzer
and an infrared receiver for user input.
Four-way header CON9 breaks out
the Arduino’s I2C peripheral. Though
this suits many sensors and modules,
our primary intent is to drive a character LCD module, similar to those we
described in the June 2018 issue. This
sort of display is easy to drive and well
suited to showing a large number of
changing parameters, such as temperatures and fan speeds, in near real-time.
No I2C pull-ups are provided on the
board, as these are fitted on the LCD
interface module.
CON12 allows power at 5V or 12V
(set by JP1) to be fed into the shield.
D3 provides reverse polarity protection by conducting enough current to
blow fuse F1 if the supply is reversed.
Switch S1 can be used to switch this
supply on or off.
If JP1 is set to the 12V position, power is fed to the Uno’s VIN pin, which
in turn provides regulated 5V back to
the shield via the Uno’s 5V regulator
and pin. The 5V position feeds power
directly to the 5V pin.
The jumper can also be left off,
if, for example, 12V (VIN) and 5V
rails are available from elsewhere;
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
RADIATOR WITH FANS
THERMISTORS
BREW/FERMENT
VESSEL
PELTIER DEVICES
BETWEEN WATER
FILLED BLOCKS
WATER
RESERVOIR
SC
WATER RESERVOIR
PUMP
2020
RADIATOR WITH FANS
(OPTIONAL)
PUMP
Fig.3: this ‘circuit’ shows how the Thermal Regulator could be used to control a sous-vide cooker or for making
cheese or fermenting beer or wine. While the two loops make the hardware a bit more complex, this makes it capable
of moving more heat around, necessary to achieve the higher temperatures needed for cooking.
for example from an attached Peltier
Driver shield.
Although the Uno has six ADC
channels (analogue inputs), two of
these pins are shared with the I2C
peripheral and so cannot be used.
Thus IC1, a 74HC4053 triple twoway analogue multiplexer, is used to
switch the A0, A1 and A2 analogue
input pins between CON2, CON3 and
CON1 respectively in one state, and
IC2 (the DS18B20), CON4 and CON5
respectively in the other state.
The control inputs for all three
multiplexer channels are connected
together, to digital pin D2 on the Uno.
The output-enable (E) pin is connected
to ground, so the three switches in IC1
are always active.
The A0, A1 and A2 pins have separate 4.7kΩ pull-up resistors to the 5V
rail, which provides parasitic power
if a DS18B20 is fitted or forms the top
half of a voltage divider circuit if an
NTC thermistor is fitted.
CON6, CON7 and CON8 are fourway plugs for the connection of PWMcapable fans. Their 12V and GND
supplies are taken from the VIN pin
and GND pin of the shield.
The tachometer outputs are fed to
Arduino pins D4, D5 and D6 respectively via 1kΩ resistors. These can
be set as digital inputs to sense the
fan speeds.
A common PWM signal to the fans
is provided from Arduino pin D3 via
a 100Ω resistor. This line also has a
10kΩ pull-down, so the fans are off
during reset.
CON10 and CON11 are for the
control of small 12V pumps. Each is
switched by a low-side NPN transistor
(Q1 and Q2), controlled by Uno pins
D7 and D8 via 1kΩ resistors.
Snubbing diodes D1 and D2 are
connected directly across the outputs
at CON10 and CON11. They absorb
any back-EMF spikes when the pumps
switch off.
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
Similarly, piezo buzzer PB1 is controlled by NPN transistor Q3. Its base
is driven from Arduino pin D12 via a
1kΩ current-limiting resistor.
Of the three onboard LEDs, LED2 is
driven directly by pin D13 going high
and sourcing current through a 1kΩ resistor. LED1 and LED3 are connected in
anti-parallel between pins D2 and A3
with a 1kΩ series resistor. LED1 lights
when A3 is high and D2 is low; LED3
lights when D2 is high and A3 is low.
Naturally, both cannot be on at the
same time. This arrangement means
that the LEDs may flicker when D2 is
being switched to scan the temperature
sensors, but this only happens briefly.
Infrared receiver IRX1 is powered
via a 100Ω resistor and bypassed by
a 100nF capacitor. Its output is fed
to Arduino pin D1 via a 1kΩ resistor.
The UART peripheral also uses D1, so
it cannot be used at the same time as
the receiver.
Pins D9, D10 and D11 are left free
and are intended to be used to control
the Peltier Driver shield.
We have written several functions
and routines to control the Interface
shield, including such things as
thermistor calibration curves and
interrupt-based tachometer speed signal processing.
A minor limitation of the code as
written is that it only supports the
single DS18B20 fitted to the PCB. It’s
possible to read the temperature from
other DS18B20s running on parasitic
power from CON1-CON5 by altering
the code, but this will considerably
slow down temperature sampling.
We did this because we found the
performance of the cheap NTC thermistors to be adequate.
Power
Anything to do with moving significant
amounts of heat around requires a fair
amount of power. We used four 5A
Peltier devices in our prototype. The
fans, pumps and shield add up to no
more than an amp.
Most Peltier devices are rated to run
at up to 15V. Thus we need around 21A
at approximately 15V. The reduced I2R
losses are a good reason to use a slightly
lower voltage like 12V, which is also
more common.
For our prototype, we used an ATX
computer power supply capable of
delivering 22A from its 12V rail.
While this sounds quite close for
comfort, the supply’s other output rails
(eg, 5V or 3.3V) have practically no
demand. We found the power supply
stayed comfortably within specification overall, and the power supply
did not show any signs of stress under
continuous operation.
Alternatives include a 15V or 13.8V
open-frame power supply module or
a high-current bench power supply.
We even did some initial testing using our 45V/8A supply from OctoberDecember 2020, although this is a poor
use of its talents!
We’ll show how we rigged up the
ATX power supply; other supply options will probably be quite simple
in comparison.
Other hardware
As you might imagine, there’s a bit
more to this project than the electronics. Fortunately, most of the parts are
readily available at online sites such
as AliExpress and eBay.
Before construction, we recommend
you thoroughly read about our designs
to see what you need, as there is a fair
bit of flexibility possible.
As mentioned above, our main heat
transfer medium is water. It has a superb heat capacity (it can hold a lot of
thermal energy for a given mass) and
it has fair thermal conductivity (it’s
easy to move heat energy in or out of
water). Plus, there is a lot of off-theshelf equipment suitable for working
with water.
33
RADIATOR WITH FANS
THERMISTORS
EXPANSION
LEG
WATER
RESERVOIR
SC
2020
PUMP
PELTIER DEVICES
BETWEEN WATER
FILLED BLOCKS
PUMP
TO APPLICATION
Fig.4: this is a variant of Fig.3. The vessel on the left-hand loop has been
replaced by an expansion leg, the opening of which should be the highest
part of the loop to avoid spillage. You can use the water from the right-hand
loop to cool or heat whatever you need (such as a personal air-conditioner
made from another radiator and some fans).
For example, the pumps we are using are similar to what might be used
to circulate water in an aquarium.
Naturally, you should take care that
there is no chance of water getting in
the electronics (or vice versa).
The thermal loop
We manage the temperature of the water bath by circulating water through
one or more loops. The movement
works to keep the water mixed so that
there are no hot and cold spots. Fig.3Fig.6 show some variations on the
water ‘circuits’ that are possible with
our hardware.
Fig.3 shows the set-up that you
might use for fermentation, while
Fig.4 shows a general heating/cooling
application and Fig.5 shows a simplified fermentation application (which
would be cheaper to build but possibly
less effective).
Fig.6 shows how we used the Thermal Regulator to pre-cool the water
for our laser cutter, reducing the laser’s
operating temperature on hot days
(more on that later).
You may realise from these diagrams
that the water loop(s) mean that we
can keep the radiators/heatsinks/fans
which dump the ‘waste heat’ into the
air well away from what we are trying
to regulate.
This is a key benefit to using water to
transfer heat. Using a larger volume of
water means that the setup will be more
robust to external changes, but will
take longer to reach its target setpoint.
The aim here is to move the heat to or
from where we want it as effectively
as possible. The loops allow the heat
to be moved easily.
The parts required
Many of the parts we used were obtained as part of a kit. These kits are
typically sold for water cooling computers (eg, for overclocking). We also
34
had to get a few other miscellaneous
bits and pieces.
The water is moved by small 12V
submersible pumps. These are cheap
and draw around 300mA each. The
water is not being pumped to any
great height, as it is generally around
a closed circuit, so a high pressure
or ‘head’ is not needed. Generally, as
long as the water is moving to some
degree, we can maintain the level of
heat transport we need.
To join everything together, we used
flexible silicone tubing. We obtained
this as part of our kit, although you can
also get it from hardware or camping
stores. We found that the most useful
size has an inside diameter of approximately 8mm and is a good friction fit to
the barbed fittings on the other parts.
Although the tube is a tight fit, we
didn’t trust this completely. To secure
the tubing, we used small (6mm16mm) hose clamps.
Where we needed to bend the tube at a
sharp angle, we used small barbed brass
elbows and T-pieces. These too should
be secured in place with hose clamps.
The final part of our primary circuit
is the water block. This consists of a
block of aluminium with two barbed
fittings at one end. It provides a good
thermal interface between the water
and the Peltier devices, allowing heat
to be readily transferred.
The water enters at one end, passes
up and back along the block and back
out the other fitting. Aluminium is a
pretty good thermal conductor, and it
is cheap and easy to work with.
In a typical application, the Peltier
devices are clamped to a flat surface of
the water block with thermal compound
in between, forming a tight fit over a
large area that conducts heat well.
Naturally, the Peltier devices have
two sides, and whatever heat is removed from one side needs to be dealt
with on the other side. The simplest
method is to use a heatsink block
which is actively cooled by fans.
In our 45V 8A PSU design (see earlier), we used a pair of high-powered
fans on a heatsink and found this to
be capable of dispersing a few hundred watts.
We ran some trials using this technique with Peltiers and it fared well,
but not as well as a proper radiator.
The better technique uses a second
water loop to remove heat from the
other side of the Peltier device.
This uses a second pump and associated piping similar to the water bath.
The water from the second loop goes
through a fan-cooled radiator.
The radiator is like a smaller version
of the radiator in a car. Water passes
through the radiator and air is moved
over it by the fans.
If the water is warmer than the air,
then the water is cooled (and the air is
warmed). If the water is cooler than the
air, then the water is warmed.
The radiator works better because it
has a larger area for transporting heat
and moves more air, but it is also a
more complex arrangement.
This is the arrangement we have
fitted to our laser cutter.
THERMISTORS
COOLING FANS
BREW/FERMENT
VESSEL
HEATSINK
PUMP
SC
2020
PELTIER DEVICES
BETWEEN HEATSINK/FANS
& WATER FILLED BLOCK
WATER RESERVOIR
Fig.5: the minimal viable hydraulic circuit. For simplicity, we use a fan-heatsink
combination instead of a second water loop. While not quite as effective as a
radiator, this sort of configuration can move a few hundred watts of heat.
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
RADIATOR WITH FANS
RADIATOR WITH FANS
THERMISTORS
PELTIER DEVICES
BETWEEN WATER
FILLED BLOCKS
WATER
RESERVOIR
WATER
RESERVOIR
SC
PUMP
PUMP
2020
PUMP
CUTTING LASER
(INTEGRAL WITH LASER CUTTER)
Fig.6: this is the arrangement that we have installed onto our laser cutter, to help ‘boost’ the laser cooling on hot days.
It reduces the laser temperature by around 6°C compared to purely passive cooling (which is pretty good when you
consider that with passive cooling, it operates at 10°C above ambient).
In the photos, you can see the various thermistors used throughout the
rig. We can tell a lot about how the
system is performing by the temperature readings. In particular, the temperatures at the hot and cold sides of
the Peltier devices indicate how hard
they are working and indicates the
best strategy is for extracting the best
thermal performance.
We will explain more later, but at
times it is beneficial to switch off power
to the Peltier devices. And of course,
we use other sensors to measure the
temperature at our water bath to be able
to reach the target temperature – and
know when we have done so.
Water vessel for brewing ...
Another part that is not included in
typical computer water-cooling kits is
the reservoir for the water. The choice
These pumps are small and only draw
around 300mA. They are sealed and
thus fully immersible (the impeller is
coupled to the shaft by magnets). Since
they are not raising the water to any
great height, not much power is needed.
The main thing to ensure is that the
intake is always fully submerged, as
they are not self-priming.
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
(size) of this will of course depend on
your application.
While you might be tempted to think
that, for the fermentation application,
you could circulate the fermenting
liquid directly past the Peltiers, we
strongly recommend against this. We
could see no assurances anywhere that
the parts we used were food safe and
in any case, any beer left behind in the
fluid circuits would be very difficult
to clean out.
Beer is slightly acidic, and many
cleaning solutions are strongly
alkaline. The fittings may not be able
to withstand these sort of chemicals.
Thus, for brewing and fermenting
applications, we suggest using a large
water bath in which the brew vessel is
placed. Assuming that you are using
one of the plastic 25L units, a plastic
storage container like those available
from discount variety stores and hardware stores is the simplest option.
The larger container behaves as
a water jacket. It does not need to
enclose the smaller brew vessel completely, but should come most of the
way up the sides of it to improve the
surface area over which heat is transferred. A hole cut in the larger vessel’s
lid (forming a seal of sorts around the
brew vessel) will reduce the amount
of evaporation that might occur and
thus reduce the power needed to
maintain temperature.
Such a large vessel can lose (or gain)
heat from the surroundings due to its
large surface area, so a modest amount
of insulation may help; something as
simple as a towel may suffice.
… and cooking
As we mentioned, the higher temperatures used for sous-vide cookery will
tax the Peltier devices more. For this
application, we recommend that you
use a small foam cooler. We used one
designed to hold six drink cans during
testing. Its small size minimises the
area through which heat is lost and
also the volume of liquid to be heated.
But it’s large enough to fit most items
you would cook.
These coolers can be found online or
at disposals and outdoor stores. Check
that it comes with a lid, as a fair degree
of evaporation can occur at the temperatures used. You must also take care
during use as the temperatures reached
can be high enough to cause scalding.
Because the food is sealed into
waterproof bags during the sousvide process, there is minimal risk
of contamination due to contact with
non-food-safe parts. You might like to
double-bag to be sure.
To implement the two-loop variant
of our design, you will need a second
vessel. The insulation on this is not so
critical because the radiator and fans
are simply trying to keep the second
The brass fittings are a snug fit for the transparent hose we used and did not
show any signs of becoming detached. But we still used hose clamps to make
sure. The tubing that was supplied with our kit with quite soft, so we replaced
this with some thicker tube bought locally.
35
This assembly is held together by clamps, with the Peltier devices sandwiched
between water blocks. The black wires visible lead to thermistors which are
also held in place by the clamps. Not visible is a small amount of thermal
compound between the heat-conducting surfaces.
loop’s temperature near ambient anyway. It may be handy to have a lid,
though, to prevent a long-term loss of
water through evaporation. We used
a plastic ice-cream tub as the second
water vessel for our tests.
Another thing to be cautious about
is the possibility of bacterial/algal contamination, particularly if you are using
the Thermal Regulator for cooking.
Bacteria and algae can flourish in warm
water. For example, the circulation of
warm water which is exposed to the air
has been implicated in cases involving
Legionnaire’s disease, such as those
found in industrial cooling towers.
Naturally, you should take care to
prevent the water from the cooling
loops coming near anything that may
be consumed. You should also discard
and replace the loop water regularly as
this will help limit the accumulation
of pathogens.
If you are familiar with the brewing process, then you will know how
crucial proper cleanliness is for good,
consistent results.
Measured performance
We found that under well-insulated
conditions, our water bath got up to
around 70°C with an ambient temperature of 18°C. For these tests, our
main water vessel contained around
two litres of water in an insulated
foam cooler; the second loop was
about a litre held in a (clean) icecream container.
In these tests, a good amount of
water vapour is produced, resulting in
evaporative cooling which forces the
Peltier devices to work harder.
We got down to around 2°C when
cooling. Getting close to the freezing
point of water is the limiting factor.
We saw frost on the Peltier devices,
This radiator is more effective at removing heat than the heatsink and fans. This
is due to its larger effective surface area.
36
so it was clear that some parts were
dropping below freezing.
The typical time to reach these extremes is about half an hour using four
standard 5A devices running at around
11V. So you can see that the temperature ramp is not rapid. Good thermal
insulation is necessary for reaching the
temperature extremes.
We calculated that the secondary
water loop cooled by the radiator has
about double the heat removal capacity
as the simple heatsink solution.
Consider that in all cases we are effectively trying to move heat between
an ambient atmosphere (the air being
circulated by the fans and through the
radiator) and the water bath, the closer
these temperatures are, the easier our
task will be. Indeed, it is when the
temperature differential across the
Peltier devices is the largest that they
struggle most.
For example, during some of our
initial testing, while trying to cool
hot water, we noted that it was more
effective to shut down the Peltier devices and allow thermal conduction
to move the heat. Powering the Peltier
devices simply added more heat to the
system (I2R losses), which also had to
be removed.
Sous-vide cookery is the application
we envisage that requires the most
extreme temperatures, so insulation is
essential for good results there. In some
cases, you could pre-heat the water using a kettle and then let the Thermal
Regulator reach the target temperature
and keep it there; that would be faster
than starting with cold water.
Coming next month
That’s all we have space for in this
issue. Next month, we will describe
how to build the two shields, program
the Arduino and put the whole system
together. In the meantime, if you want
to build a Thermal Regulator, now
A small foam cooler such as that shown
here is a good choice for sous-vide cookery
with the Thermal Regulator. A high
degree of insulation is needed, and the
snug-fitting lid minimises the amount of
water and heat that is lost to evaporation.
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
Parts lists – Programmable Thermal Regulator (Arduino/Peltier)
1 set of fluid-handling hardware (see text and below)
1 Arduino Uno R3 or compatible (ATmega328-based) board
1 Peltier Driver shield (see below)
1 Interface shield (see below)
1 high-current DC power supply (see text)
1 20x4 alphanumeric LCD screen with I2C interface (for
example, the device in the June 2018 PE article)
1 length of light-duty figure 8 cable (for LCD screen)
1 4-way polarised header plug plus pins (for LCD screen)
1 universal infrared remote control
[Jaycar XC3718, Altronics A1012]
Fluid-handling hardware (single loop)
4 5A Peltier devices
1 water vessel to suit your application
1 small 12V DC water pump
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/32810010753.html]
1 40x200mm aluminium water block
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/4000299552495.html]
1 water block mounting kit
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/32323128854.html]
1 200mm-long heatsink (to suit water block)
[Jaycar HH8530, Altronics H0536]
2 80mm 12V fans or to suit heatsink
[Jaycar YX2512, Altronics F1050]
mounting hardware to suit fans
a few metres of 8mm internal diameter flexible silicone tubing
several elbows and tees to suit tubing
4+ 6-16mm hose clamps
1 tube of thermal paste
various cable ties
Fluid-handling hardware (twin loops)
4 5A Peltier devices
2 water vessels to suit your application
2 small 12V DC water pumps
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/32810010753.html]
2 40x200mm aluminium water blocks
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/4000299552495.html]
2 water block mounting kits
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/32323128854.html]
a few metres of 8mm internal diameter flexible silicone tubing
several elbows and tees to suit tubing
8+ 6-16mm hose clamp
1 tube of thermal paste
various cable ties
1 fan radiator, 360mm type recommended
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/32833463954.html]
1-3 12V fans to suit radiator (eg, 120mm fans)
[Jaycar YX2574, Altronics F1165]
mounting hardware to suit fans
Peltier Driver shield parts
1 double-sided PCB coded 21109182, 53.5mm x 68.5mm
1 10-way stackable header (11mm pin height)
1 8-way stackable header (11mm pin height)
2 6-way stackable headers (11mm pin height)
2 2-way barrier terminals, 8.3mm pitch (CON1,CON2)
1 5x2-pin header (LK1-4)
3 jumper shunts (LK1-4)
would be a good time to figure out the
system configuration you will need and
order the parts. You may be able to start
building the piping and heat transfer
assemblies if those parts arrive quickly.
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
2 M205 PCB-mount fuse clips (F1)
1 25A M205 fuse (F1)
1 3.3µH 19A SMD inductor, 14.0 x 12.8mm
[eg, Pulse PA4343.332ANLT; Digi-Key 553-4025-1-ND]
4 M3 x 9mm machine screws
4 M3 hex nuts
Semiconductors
2 1N4148 small-signal diodes (D1,D2)
1 HIP4082 H-bridge driver, DIP-16 (IC1)
[Digi-Key HIP4082IPZ-ND]
1 78L12, TO-92 (REG1; optional – see text)
4 IRLB8314 N-Channel MOSFETs, TO-220 (Q1-Q4)
[Digi-Key IRLB8314PBF-ND]
Capacitors
3 100nF MKT or multi-layer ceramic
4 10µF 16V* X7R ceramic, 3216/1206 SMD package
[Digi-key 1276-6641-1-ND]
* higher voltage versions required if DC supply >15V
Resistors (all axial 1/4W 1% metal film)
2 10kΩ
1 1.8kΩ
Peltier Interface shield parts
1 double-sided PCB coded 21109181, 53.5mm x 68.5mm
1 10-way male pin header
1 8-way male pin header
2 6-way male pin headers
1 PCB-mount blade fuse holder (F1; optional)
1 2A blade fuse (F1)
5 2-way vertical polarised headers (CON1-CON5)
4 4-way vertical polarised headers (CON6-CON9)
3 5.08mm-pitch PCB-mount two-way screw terminals
(CON10-CON12)
1 SPDT R/A PCB-mount toggle switch (S1; optional)
[Altronics S1320]
1 3-pin header and jumper shunt (LK1)
1 6mm tactile switch (S2)
1 piezo buzzer (PB1) [Jaycar AB3459, Altronics S6104]
5 10kΩ/100kΩ NTC thermistors with cables
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/32916207487.html
or www.aliexpress.com/item/33057351310.html]
5 two-way polarised header plugs with pins (if thermistors
don’t come with a suitable plug)
light-duty figure-8 cable (if sensor wires are not long enough)
Semiconductors
1 74HC4053 triple 2-channel analogue multiplexer, DIP-16 (IC1)
1 DS18B20 digital temperature sensor, TO-92 (IC2)
2 BC337 NPN transistors, TO-92 (Q1,Q2)
1 BC547 NPN transistor, TO-92 (Q3)
1 red 5mm LED (LED1)
1 green 5mm LED (LED2)
1 blue 5mm LED (LED3)
3 1N4004 400V 1A diodes (D1-D3)
Capacitors
2 100nF MKT or multi-layer ceramic
Resistors (all 1/4W axial 1% metal film)
3 4.7kΩ
1 10kΩ
9 1kΩ
The software we’ll present next
month has several different operating
modes: setting a target temperature
which the unit then maintains, providing maximum heating or cooling, as well
2 100Ω
as one mode where it follows a preset
temperature ‘profile’ when triggered.
Reproduced by arrangement with
SILICON CHIP magazine 2021.
www.siliconchip.com.au
37
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