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Dramatically improve performance of SDR – especially at HF
Tunable HF
Preamplifier
by Charles Kosina
with Gain Control
There are many cheap Software Defined Radio (SDR) modules available
which perform brilliantly at VHF/UHF, but they generally have poor HF
(3-30MHz) performance. They also suffer from wide-open front ends, which
makes them susceptible to cross-modulation from strong signal sources.
This simple tunable preamplifier greatly improves SDR HF performance. It
has (optional) gain control and can run off a 5V supply or phantom power.
M
ost SDRs (and many other
radio receivers) can benefit
from a preamp to boost the
signal from the antenna.
This one is nice and simple, low in
cost, easy to build and works well over
most of the HF range.
It can be built with variable or fixed
gain. Variable gain is ideal as it allows you to avoid overload on strong
signals, while still taking advantage
of the improved selectivity of a tuned
front end.
It’s a fairly compact unit when completed, and runs from a 5V power supply, which in some cases can come from
the receiver itself via the Preamplifier’s
output lead, using ‘phantom power’.
The circuit of the Tunable HF
Preamplifier is shown in Fig.1.
The input signal is fed into chassismount BNC connector CON1, then to
the PCB via pin header CON2 and onto
DPDT switch S1, which passes it to one
of two transformers. This provides two
different tuning ranges, allowing the
tuning to be more selective.
T1 covers a range of about 5-11MHz,
while T2 covers 11-24MHz. Both are
tuned by dual variable capacitor VC1,
with its two gangs wired in parallel to
give a 6-200pF range.
The tuned signal is then fed to gate 1
of dual-gate MOSFET Q1. The signal is
DC-biased from the nominally +5V rail
via a 150kΩ resistor and 10nF low-pass
filter capacitor, to reject supply noise.
The MOSFET’s gain is controlled
by varying the DC voltage on the
second gate, using potentiometer VR1
which has padder resistors at either
end, to limit its wiper voltage to the
useful range.
Fixed gain can be provided by omitting VR1 and changing the resistor values, as described in the circuit diagram.
Q1’s drain load is the primary of
transformer T3, with a 1.25mH inductance. The other end connects to
the +5V rail which is bypassed by a
10nF capacitor. The 75µH secondary
is connected similarly, and the signal
is AC-coupled to output SMA connector CON3 via another 10nF capacitor.
Alternatively, if you want the device
to be phantom powered via CON3,
jumper JP1 is inserted, allowing the
DC supply voltage to flow through T3’s
Features and specifications
Tuning range ...5-24MHz (two
ranges, wider tuning range possible)
Bandwidth........typically 50-250kHz
(varies with tuned frequency)
Gain..................typically 34-36dB
Power supply...5V DC <at> 30mA
Shown a little larger than life size, this is the completed PCB (in this case version 1
with toroids) mounted in the diecast case. S1 is shown here mounted off the board,
but the Altronics S2075 slide switch could probably be mounted directly.
38
Connectors ......BNC input, SMA
output (can be varied)
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
2
#0.5T IF T1 WOUND ON TOROIDAL CORE
1T IF T1 WOUND ON 2.2 H CHOKE
##0.5T IF T2 WOUND ON TOROIDAL CORE
2T IF T2 WOUND ON 2.2 H CHOKE
A
LED1
^13T SECONDARY IF T1 WOUND ON TOROID
22T SECONDARY IF T2 WOUND ON TOROID
T1
R2
22k
2
10nF
Q1 1.25mH
BF1105
G1
VC1a
3-142pF
75 H
D
G2
10 H
(22T^)
10nF
CON3
10nF
COILCRAFT
PWB-16-AL
16:1
JP1
(FIT ONLY WHEN
SUPPLYING
PHANTOM POWER
VIA CON3)
VC1b
3-60pF
T2
0.5-2T##
OPTIONAL
5V SUPPLY
(REMOVE JP1)
T3
10nF
S
150k
1
10nF
S1b
+
–
1
OPTIONAL
GAIN CONTROL
2.2 H
(13T^)
0.5-1T#
CON2
VR1*
100k
K
S1a
CON1
R1
22k
2.7k
CON4
* IF GAIN CONTROL IS NOT NEEDED,
SHORT ALL PINS OF VR1 & CHANGE
VALUES OF R1 TO 100k, R2 TO 150k
BF1105
LED
G2(3)
SC TUNABLE
Tunable
HF Preamplifier
HF PREAMPLIFIER
20 1 9
K
A
G1(4)
D(2)
S(1)
Fig.1: the circuit is quite simple, especially given its performance. It has a gain of around 35dB and a tuning range up
to about 24MHz as shown (but can be extended to about 30MHz). VC1 a and b is a miniature dual variable capacitor,
typically sold as a tuning capacitor for small radio receivers.
secondary and into the +5V rail. This is
then modulated with the output signal
which is coupled in from T3’s primary.
Two versions
You can build the device in two different versions. Version 1 has T1 and T2
wound on toroidal ferrite cores. These
are not that easy to get, and winding
the turns is tedious, but they have the
advantage of a very high unloaded Q,
up to 350.
Version 2 is easier to build as T1
and T2 are based on readily obtainable
axial RF inductors, which are each
about the size of a 1W resistor.
The primary winding is just one
or two turns of wire around the inductor body. These inductors exhibit
a surprisingly high Q, up to 120 in the
range of interest.
Obtaining the parts
The output transformer is a broadband Coilcraft device. I got mine as a
free sample, but they are also readily
available from element14. The tuning capacitor comes from Jaycar and
many other sources, including eBay.
The SMA output connector is readily
available on eBay; sellers often list ten
for a few pounds.
The other components are reasonably standard parts. Those which are
not available from Jaycar or Altronics can be purchased from Digi-key,
Mouser or element14.
Changing the frequency range
If you changed the 2.2µH inductor
to 1µH, that would give you a tuning
range of about 12-30MHz, giving you
almost full coverage of the HF band. If
Practical Electronics | March | 2021
building Version 1, with the toroidal
ferrite cores, this could be achieved
by reducing the number of secondary
windings on T1 by about one third. If
building version 2, using RF chokes,
simply substitute a 1µH choke.
Construction
The Tunable HF Preamplifier is
built on a double-sided PCB coded
CSE190502, measuring 79.5 x 29mm.
Refer to the overlay diagram, Fig.2,
along with the photos to see how it
all goes together.
Fig.2(a) shows Version 1, with T1
and T2 wound on ferrite toroidal
cores, while Fig.2(b) shows Version 2,
using the RF chokes with turns of wire
around the outside of each to make
them into transformers.
We used 0.25mm insulated wire but
enamelled copper (ENCU) wire would
also be satisfactory.
Many of the components are SMDs,
with 2012 (metric) / 0805 (imperial)
capacitors and 3216 (metric) / 1206
(imperial) resistors.
I find that an SMD board now takes
me less time to assemble than one with
through-hole components, and none
of the parts on this board are difficult
to solder.
Start by fitting the SMD passives.
Tack one end down, then solder the
other end and wait for the joint to solidify before refreshing the first joint.
Then mount dual-gate MOSFET Q1
with its larger tab oriented as shown
above, followed by transformer T3,
with its pin 1 dot at upper left.
Follow with edge-mount connector
CON3, which is placed over the edge
of the board before soldering its pins
top and bottom. Make sure the middle
contact pin is on the correct side to
match with its pad. Then fit the pin
headers where shown.
If you are building Version 1, now is
the time to wind and mount the toroidal
transformers. T1 has a half-turn for its
primary (best fitted after the secondary
has already been soldered to the board)
and 13 equally-spaced turns for its
secondary. Try to wind the secondary
so that it spans just over half the core,
meaning the start and end correspond
with the PCB pads (see photos).
T2 also has a half-turn primary but a
22-turn secondary, which is wound to
cover the entire circumference of the
core (not shown for clarity in Fig.2(a);
see the photo) and then brought back
across the core to terminate to the other
secondary pad on the PCB.
Once you’ve wound the secondaries
and soldered them to the PCB pads,
you can solder one end of each
primary, pull it tight across the core and
then trim it and solder the other end.
If you’re building Version 2, you just
need to wind one turn of 0.25mm wire
(ENCU or insulated) around the body of
the 2.2µH inductor and fit it for T1 as
shown, with the added windings as the
primary, and wind two turns around the
10µH inductor and use it as T2; again,
the added windings are the primary.
If you’re using a trimpot for VR1,
fit it now. If you want the gain to be
externally adjustable, solder leads
onto the three terminals of your chosen
potentiometer and attach a three-pin
plug to the other end. Alternatively
(and more simply), cut female-female
jumper leads in half and solder the
exposed ends to the pot terminals. The
39
The same-size photo
below shows version
2, with the enlarged
inset at left showing
how the one and
two-turn primary
windings are added.
The PCB pads for
the ‘earthy’ end of
the primaries are
directly under the
2.2µH and 10µH
chokes.
Fig.2a (top) is the component overlay for version 1, using
two toroids for T1 and T2 with primaries and secondaries
wound through them. Fig.2b (bottom) shows version 2, an
identical overlay but using axial RF chokes instead, with
primaries of one or two turns of thin wire around them.
sockets at the other end can be plugged
into the PCB header later.
Now fit the variable capacitor. Remove the knob first, then attach the
body to the PCB using the two supplied
screws through from the underside.
Solder the three pins, then re-attach the
knob to the shaft, which passes through
a hole in the PCB.
Leave LED1 off for now.
Preparing the case
Now place the PCB assembly in the
case, sitting on its spacers, and slide it
so that CON3 touches the side of the
case. Measure the distance from the
centre of CON3 to the top of the box.
Then measure that same distance on
the outside, from the top of the box
near CON3, and mark where the hole
will need to be drilled. Remove the
Parts list – Tunable HF Preamp
1 double-sided PCB, code CSE190502, 79.5 x 29mm
1 diecast aluminium case, 115 x 65 x 30mm [Jaycar HB5036, Altronics H0421]
1 BF1105 dual-gate SMD MOSFET (Q1)
1 5mm or 3mm LED (LED1)
2 small toroidal ferrite cores, 12.5mm OD, 7.5mm ID, 5mm thick (T1/T2) [eg, TDK
B64290A0044X830] OR
2 axial RF chokes, 2.2µH and 10µH [Jaycar LF1514 + LF1522, Altronics L7014 + L7022]
1 Coilcraft PWB-16-AL transformer (T3) [mouser.co.uk, element14]
1 chassis-mount BNC socket (CON1)
1 edge-mount SMA socket (CON3)
3 2-pin headers (CON2,CON4,JP1)
1 chassis-mount DC socket (optional)
1 shorting block/jumper shunt (for JP1)
1 DPDT toggle or slide switch (S1)
Reproduced by arrangement with
1 3-pin header (for VR1)
SILICON CHIP magazine 2021.
www.siliconchip.com.au
1 3x2-pin header (for S1)
4 6.3mm nylon M3 tapped spacers
8 M3 x 6mm machine screws
1 1m length of 0.25mm diameter enamelled copper or insulated wire
1 1m length of light-duty hookup wire
1 50mm length of 6-way ribbon cable (for S1)
1 6-pin IDC socket (for S1)
Capacitors
5 10nF 50V SMD ceramic capacitors, 2012/0805 size, X7R dielectric
1 dual variable capacitor (VC1) [Jaycar RV5728, ebay item 362011911185,
bitsbox.co.uk, VC006]
Resistors (all SMD 3216/1206 size, 1%)
1 150kΩ
2 22kΩ*
1 2.7kΩ
1 100kΩ linear chassis-mount potentiometer (VR1) OR
1 100kΩ multi-turn vertical trimpot (VR1)
* or 1 100kΩ + 1 150kΩ for fixed gain (omit VR1 and 3-pin header)
40
PCB and drill a small hole there, then
enlarge it to 7mm.
Check that the connector fits through
the hole with the spacers sitting on
the bottom of the box. If so, deburr it.
Otherwise, you may have to enlarge it
slightly. Once it fits, drill a small hole
at the opposite end of the box and enlarge it to around 10mm, then check
that the BNC socket fits. Once it does,
deburr that hole too and again, clean
out the swarf.
Now remove the spacers from the
PCB, push CON3 through the hole you
drilled and mark out the four mounting
hole positions. Also mark the location
where LED1 will protrude through the
base, once it has been installed, and
mark a suitable location for the DPDT
switch. Note that a 5mm LED will have
to clear the PCB once fitted.
Drill the marked holes to 3mm, then
enlarge the LED hole to 5mm, and the
switch hole until the switch fits. Deburr
all the holes and clean off the swarf. If
you’re building the Preamplifier with
an external gain control, now is also a
good time to figure out where the pot
will be mounted and drill and deburr
a suitable hole.
If you are going to be supplying
external power, drill a hole for the DC
socket now. It would make sense to
move the BNC socket slightly towards
one side of the case to make more room
for the DC socket.
Final assembly
The last component to be fitted to the
board is the LED. It’s mounted on the
opposite side to most of the other components, and its longer lead must face
towards the pad marked ‘A’ on the PCB.
Push its leads through their holes
so that the lens is fully down onto the
PCB, then slot the board in place holdPractical Electronics | March | 2021
ing the leads, and use them to push the
LED lens through its mounting hole
while CON3 is hard against the edge
of the case.
Prop the board up so that the LED
lens is not being pushed back into
the hole, attach a couple of the board
mounting screws to ensure it’s in position, then solder and trim LED1’s leads.
After that, insert the remainder of the
PCB mounting screws.
Mount the BNC socket in the hole
you made earlier and solder a short
length of hookup wire to its middle pin.
Connect this wire to the lower terminal
of CON2, to the left of the header for
S1, as shown in Figs.2(a) and (b). You
don’t need to connect the RCA socket
shield, as it’s grounded to the metal box
and this connects to board ground via
CON3’s shell.
All that’s left now is to wire up and
fit switch S1. Crimp a length of 6-way
ribbon cable into the IDC connector
shell, so that the red wire will be towards the top when plugged into the
header on the board such that the cable
exits to the left (ie, towards the nearest
board edge).
Now separate and strip the wires
at the other end. Starting with the red
wire, solder them to the following
switch terminals: NC1, NC2, COM1,
COM2, NO1, NO2. In this case, the
numbers 1 and 2 refer to the two switch
poles. It doesn’t matter which is 1 and
which is 2, as long as you are consistent. It also doesn’t matter which side of
the switch you consider to be NC and
which is NO.
Once the wires have been soldered
and the switch mounted in the base,
plug the IDC socket into the header as
shown in the photos.
If using a DC socket to feed in external power, solder wires to its two tabs;
if your socket has three tabs, plug in a
plugpack and use a DMM to figure out
which is positive and which is negative. Mount the socket in the hole you
made earlier, then terminate the leads
to CON4, either by soldering them directly to its pins (see PCB for polarity)
or by attaching a two-way header socket
to the wires.
As with the pot, you can cut a femalefemale jumper lead in half and then solder its bare ends to the DC socket. The
other ends will plug straight into CON4.
Alternatively, if using phantom power
from the radio receiver via CON3, place
a jumper shunt on JP1 now.
If you’re fitting an external gain control pot, mount this now, and plug its
terminals into the pin header soldered
in place of VR1. The lead soldered to
the anti-clockwise end of the pot (as
viewed from the front) plugs into the
left-most terminal of the VR1 header,
with the PCB viewed right-side-up.
Using it
Now it’s just a matter of screwing the lid
onto the box, connecting your antenna
to CON1, your radio to CON3, hooking
up a 5V power supply (if using external
power), and switching S1 to the appropriate band. You may wish to label
the case to indicate which position is
for the lower tuning range and which
is for the upper.
With power applied, check that LED1
lights. Switch to your SDR’s spectrum
analyser view and set the range to
3-30MHz. Check that adjusting VC1
changes which frequencies are being
amplified, and that VR1 (if fitted) allows you to control the gain. Check
also that S1 switches bands and that
the two ranges are roughly as expected.
As VC1 is not calibrated, you will
need to use a spectrum display to see
what frequency you are tuning in, although you can ‘blind tune’ by simply
adjusting VC1 and S1 for maximum
signal at your desired frequency.
Then adjust VR1 (if fitted) for the
best reception without overloading
the receiver.
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