This is only a preview of the February 2024 issue of Practical Electronics. You can view 0 of the 72 pages in the full issue. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Active Mains Soft Starter":
Items relevant to "ADVANCED SMD TEST TWEEZERS":
Items relevant to "Active Subwoofer For Hi-Fi at Home":
Articles in this series:
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High-Performance
Part 2: By Phil Prosser
Active Subwoofer
For Hi-Fi at Home
Last month, we showed the performance of the
new ultra-high-fidelity Subwoofer design and
provided all the cabinet construction details.
In this second and final article in the
series, we’ll finish off the Active Subwoofer
by building and installing its internal 180W amplifier, finishing the
wiring, installing the driver and adding some feet.
A
fter building the SC200,
Ultra-LD Mk.3 or Mk.4 amplifier, most of the remaining work
is in making the custom metal bracket,
drilling the heatsink and combining
the bracket, heatsink, amplifier and
power supply into a compact amplification module. It then slots neatly into
the 220 × 170mm rectangular cut-out
that you would have already made in
the rear of the Subwoofer.
If you haven’t already built the
amplifier module, it’s best to refer
to the ‘IMPORTANT!’ box opposite
(repeated from last month).
You will also need to build the
Multi-Channel Speaker Protector but
with only one relay. You can also leave
off the components surrounding the
missing relay. For example, you could
install RLY2 and leave off everything
to the left of diode D2 and the 100kW
resistor above it.
With those two modules assembled,
and the rest of the components gathered, you are ready to start putting it
all together.
I used nutserts to hold those pieces
together as they make for an elegant
result (they’re basically threaded rivets). However, you can use machine
screws and nuts instead.
The L-bracket for the Speaker Protector can be made by bending an aluminium sheet by hand in a vise. The
larger bracket for the power supply is
trickier; if you do not have access to
metal folding equipment, I saw some
brackets at our local hardware store
that would work. Just remember that
the power supply transformer is a
heavy component and the mounting
needs to consider shock loads such
as being dropped.
The power supply is straightforward; its circuit diagram is shown
in Fig.14. Mains power comes in via
CON1 and passes through fuse F1
and power switch S1 to transformer
T1 (which may have a single 230V or
dual 115V primaries, depending on
which transformer you purchase). Its
two 40V AC secondaries connect to
bridge rectifier BR1 and a capacitor
bank, producing ±57V DC rails.
Since a subwoofer must deliver large
amounts of power for extended periods,
Fabricating the bracket
I used a 3mm-thick panel of aluminium as the main plate for the chassis.
To that, I mounted a folded bracket
made from 1.5mm-thick aluminium
for the transformer and an L-shaped
panel for the speaker protector.
You can see these panels assembled
in Photo 11 (note some differences in
the cut-out from the final version).
All of the plate amplifier parts mount
to those panels, mainly the central
bracket.
34
Practical Electronics | February | 2024
IMPORTANT!
What you need to build the
Active Subwoofer.
Plate amplifier construction
I mounted the (Ultra-LD) amplifier
to the main panel and heatsink combined. In other words, the 3mm base
plate is between the output devices
and the heatsink. You can see the
arrangement in Photo 12.
Provided your main panel is free of
dents and scratches and the heatsink
is mounted to this with a good layer
First and foremost, you need the
‘active’ element – an amplifier.
At the time of publication this
was more complicated than
expected. We intended to
use the upgrade to the Ultra LD
Mk.2 200W Power Amplifier published back in August 2010 with
the Mk.3 (or its surface-mount
follow-up, the Mk.4). However,
unfortunately, the ‘pandemic
silicon shortage’ is still affecting a few critical devices for
those designs, so they will
be published at a later date.
Instead, we suggest you use
the SC200 200W Amplifier
Module we published back in
2018 (January to March).
That circuit incorporates most
of the features of modern
amplifier modules, but uses
easy-to-solder through-hole
components. There are no tiny
surface-mount components.
Photo 11: The majority of the plate amplifier parts mount on this bracket.
Do note that just like the
Ultra-LD Mk.3 and Mk.4 there
are component issues for the
SC200. Fortunately, we have
found good alternatives – see
the box last month.
You will also need the MultiChannel Speaker Protector
(4-CH) from PE, January 2023,
timber for the cabinet and
acoustic wadding.
we have 16mF of energy storage per
rail. This reflects the ‘no compromise’
approach to the design. However, if you
only install two 8000μF capacitors, it
will still work reasonably well.
The 270W 10W resistor is to drop the
voltage to a level suitable for powering the Speaker Protector and also to
reduce the dissipation in its regulator.
Photo 12: Here, the Ultra-LD Mk.4 amplifier attached to the bracket, ready to be
wired up – you can also use the Mk.3 or the easier SC200.
L
Subwoofer Amplifier Power Supply
Fig.14: the subwoofer power supply is about as basic as it gets. I used a 300VA transformer, but it is no longer available,
and 250VA is adequate.
Practical Electronics | February | 2024
35
Fig.15 (left): the heatsink drilling details. The heatsink used is the same
as in the original Ultra-LD Mk.3/4 articles, but the way the heatsink is
mounted is different. These hole positions are suitable for any of the
amplifier modules mentioned, including the SC200.
Fig.16 (below): the rear plate for the amplifier is made from 3mm-thick
aluminium cut and drilled, as shown here. It’s a good idea to paint it
black when finished. Ensure the rectangular hole for the rocker switch
is only as large as it needs to be for the switch to snap in. Again, this is
for the Ultra-LD amplifier, but it will work fo the SC200.
this, you can pull everything
apart, knowing it will fit perfectly later on.
of thermal paste, this will make fabrication easier and contribute to the
overall heatsinking capacity.
To ensure perfect alignment of the
baseplate and the heatsink mounting holes to the transistors, I drilled
and assembled the heatsink and main
panel before building the amplifier and
then mounted the transistors to that
before soldering them to the PCB. This
ensured that the transistors were perfectly aligned to the mounting holes
and PCB.
Do not use insulators at this point;
we will add them later. Once you
have soldered the transistors in like
36
Heatsink drilling
Fig.15 shows where to drill the holes in
the heatsink for the (Ultra-LD) amplifier.
My approach was to mark all holes on
the main panel first (see Fig.16), then
drill and tap the four corner mounting
holes into the heatsink and attach it to
the main panel with M3 screws. I then
drilled 2.5mm holes through the main
panel and heatsink. This guarantees
that the transistor mounting holes are
perfectly aligned between both panels.
I then took the heatsink off, tapped
and deburred the holes in the heatsink, then drilled and deburred the
main panel holes to 3.5mm.
Details of the main bracket that
attaches to the rear panel and holds
the amplifier module and power supply are shown in Fig.17.
The speaker protector bracket attaches
via two of the heatsink mounting screws.
This is fabricated from 1.5mm aluminium sheet folded at 90°; see Fig.18 for
the details. I included a small clamp to
hold the 270W 10W wirewound resistor
to drop the 57V rails by about 15V. It is
wired in series with the positive supply
to the Speaker Protector module.
Once the metalwork is ready, dryfit everything first and get your assembly plan in mind. Use Figs.19-21 and
Photos 12-14 to see how everything
fits. At this point, temporarily fit the
amplifier board, screw the output
devices to their mounting positions
Practical Electronics | February | 2024
and diode bridge. Use a small amount
of thermal paste under the diode
bridge. Install 15mm standoffs for
the amplifier module (only in the two
corners furthest from the heatsink),
62
F OL D U P
10 10
20
20
57.4
F OL D U P
86.5
10 10
20
20
86.5
18
25
90
13
FOLD UP
42.5
43
146.5
43
40
40
*
*
6 .5
60
**
125
54.8
**
28.2
F OL D U P
40
A
*
*
50
43
6 .5
43
110
10
20
62
28.4
10
20
25
F OL D U P
making sure you countersink the hole
for the screw that goes under the transformer and use a countersunk head
screw. Cut a piece of Presspahn or
similar and place it under the terminal
22.6
10
without insulators and solder the output devices to the PCB. This gets all
the holes lined up.
Start final assembly with the terminal block, the transformer, earth screw
6.8
50
32
HOLE A IS 6mm DIAMETER; ALL OTHER HOLES 3mm DIAMETER
(* COUNTERSUNK, FOR ULTRA-LD MK.3/4 ** COUNTERSUNK, FOR SC200)
213
377
(SHOWN HERE AT 40% OF FULL SIZE)
32
50
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
Fig.17 (above): and cut fold this support bracket from 1.5mm aluminium and paint it black. It attaches perpendicular to
the rear plate. You only need to make two of the six countersunk holes, marked with a double asterisk for the SC200.
Fig.18 (below): the larger bracket allows the Speaker Protector to be mounted in the space next to the amplifier. The
smaller bracket clamps down the 10W resistor needed to drop the supply voltage to the Speaker Protector.
Photo 13: the
underside of the
plate amplifier
with everything
in place but not
wired up yet.
Practical Electronics | February | 2024
37
strip to ensure that if anything shakes
loose from the terminal strip, there is
insulation surrounding it. Make sure
it is mounted far enough away from
the rear panel that it won’t interfere
with the wiring to the IEC socket. It
only needs to be a three-way terminal
to connect the transformer primaries,
including joining them in series.
Now mount the capacitors. Keep
all the negative terminals facing the
same way to ensure a tidy build. Then
you can finally mount the amplifier
module. Flip the module and fit the
amplifier using insulating bushes
and washers. Screw this down to the
15mm standoffs you installed earlier,
using shakeproof washers under the
M3 screws.
Next, install the Speaker Protector
on its standoffs. Make sure you have
connected a 200mm length of lightduty wire to the power input of the
Speaker Protector, as this connector
will be hard to get to later on.
Remember to wire the 270W 10W
resistor in series with the power input
for the Speaker Protector. This reduces
power dissipation in the regulator
heatsink on the Protector. This is not
strictly necessary if you have a single
relay installed, provided you use an th
specified (Altronics H0655) heatsink
Photo 14: A view
of the underside
of the completed
plate amplifier,
showing all the
wiring. Note
though that this
version uses a
separate fuse
holder and a
toggle switch;
build yours
based on the
revised design
with the fuse
holder in the IEC
socket.
on the Speaker Protector, but it doesn’t
hurt either.
With everything mounted, most of
the remaining work is wiring it up, as
shown in Fig.19 (mains wiring), Fig.20
(low-voltage supply wiring) and Fig.21
(amplifier module wiring).
Use 7.5A mains-rated cable for all
power wiring and insulate all mains
connections to prevent accidental contact with high voltages. Do
note that the final design is slightly
different than what’s shown in the
photos; instead of using a separate
fuse-holder, we’re using an IEC input
socket with an integral fuseholder and
the toggle power switch is replaced
by a rocker switch. That simplifies the
wiring and also keeps all the mains
parts away from the low-voltage side.
So follow the diagrams in that respect,
not the photos.
You can use the following steps to
guide you through the wiring.
Fig.19: a view of the underside of the plate amplifier showing the mains wiring. Be sure to keep these wires short, tie
them up and insulate all exposed mains junctions. When mounting the transformer, make sure it isn’t too close to the
corner or it could interfere with the IEC mains wiring; this configuration should be used rather than what is shown in
the photos on the prototype as it keeps all the mains connections away from the lower-voltage side.
38
Practical Electronics | February | 2024
Photo 15: this
is how the
amplifier side
of the module
looks after
construction
and wiring
is complete.
Again, this
shows the
Ultra-LD Mk.4
amplifier –
you can also
use the Mk.3
or the easier
SC200.
1. Install the earth lug and connect
the green/yellow striped earth
wire from a solder lug to the
IEC plug mains earth [we prefer
using crimp eye terminals as, if
crimped properly, they are more
robust than solder joints – Editor]. You can and should locate
the earth lug right near the IEC
socket; we’ve only shown it further away to avoid cluttering up
the diagram.
The earth screw must connect the
earth lug to the chassis and nothing else. Ensure there is no paint or
other layer stopping the earth lug
from making good contact with the
chassis; if there is, scrape it away.
Connect the second solder lug to
a 10nF capacitor and a short green
wire from the capacitor to 0V on
the capacitor bank.
2.
Cut the transformer secondary wires to appropriate lengths
to reach the bridge rectifier AC
inputs. Crimp and plug or solder
these to the bridge rectifier.
3. Using heavy-duty red and white
wire, connect the bridge’s positive
and negative outputs to the capacitor bank. Optionally, use crimp
connectors for the bridge.
4. Cover the exposed metal strip on
the IEC socket with neutral-cure
silicone sealant.
5.
Using brown mains-rated wire,
solder the live wire to the mains
socket, and from there to one pole
of the switch, then back to the terminal block. Make similar connections for neutral using blue mainsrated wire. Use heatshrink tubing
to cover all exposed junctions.
Twist these wires together and
use cable ties to secure them, so
that nothing can get loose should
a connection fail.
We do not suggest using spade
lugs to connect to the mains
socket (except possibly for the
earth) because space is relatively
tight due to the proximity of the
transformer. Ideally, the wires
should be soldered so they extend
upwards and over the transformer
body to go to the switch. You
shouldn’t need to bend the IEC
Fig.20: while similar to Fig.19, this diagram only shows the lower-voltage (~114V DC, so not that low) wiring for the
power supply. It’s best to follow this diagram exactly to avoid the possibility of ripple injection in the DC supply to the
amplifier module.
Practical Electronics | February | 2024
39
Fig.21: the wiring to the amplifier module, mounted on the opposite side of the
bracket to the power supply.
socket lugs to get extra clearance
but it could be done if necessary.
You could use crimp spade lugs
to connect to the switch since it
sits just above the transformer.
6. Connect the transformer primary
winding to the switched mains on
the terminal strip. Again, tie wrap
these securely. If the transformer
has two primaries, join the two
windings in series via another terminal on the terminal strip (ideally,
Photo 16: I used a staple gun to
attach a double layer of poly
wadding. This is required to dampen
rear emissions from the driver and
reduce resonances.
40
between the terminals used for the
other primary connections).
7. Now wire up the capacitors using
heavy-duty red and black wire.
Join all the capacitor grounds
together using heavy-duty green
wire, and connect them to the
transformer centre tap wires.
8. Next, take 400mm lengths of red,
black and green heavy-duty wire
and twist them together gently.
Connect this to the +57V, −57V and
ground terminals of the capacitor
bank, respectively. Route this to
the power amplifier power input
and trim to length.
9. Use neutral-cure silicone sealant
to stick pieces of plastic sleeving
over the exposed ±57V connections on the capacitors at this
point. This will save you from a
potential (no pun intended) 114V
DC shock if you slip and come
across them.
10.
Connect the +57V rail from the
amplifier to the 270W resistor if you
need this, and from the other end
of the resistor to the positive input
of the Speaker Protector. This can
be done using light-duty wire.
11. Connect the amplifier ground to the
GND input of the speaker protector.
12. Connect the amplifier output to
the ‘AMP’ input on the Speaker
Protector. The SPKR terminal goes
to the positive side of the driver.
13. The amplifier ground output goes
to the negative on the driver.
Final assembly
Assembly of the Active Subwoofer
is very simple as all the work is in
the enclosure and amplifier module.
Install thick ply wadding on the sides,
top and bottom of the enclosure as
shown in Photo 16. Do not block the
port as, when working hard, a lot of
air is moving through it.
Connect the amplifier’s output to
the driver using heavy-duty speaker
wire, being careful to connect the ‘+’
output of the amplifier to the red terminal of the driver. Then install the
amplifier module after sticking foam
sealing tape around the edge of the
hole in the cabinet. Attach the module with eight 16mm screws. Fig.22
and Photo 17 show how it should look
when installed in the cabinet.
Last, fit the driver with foam tape
around the hole with eight 16mm screws.
I stuck large felt feet on our Active
Subwoofer to protect our floor. This
thing is not a lightweight piece of kit!
Give your new Subwoofer a light
workout to verify that everything is
working as expected before you move
onto earth-shaking bass!
Practical Electronics | February | 2024
www.poscope.com/epe
Fig.22: this is how the rear of the plate amplifier will look when you’ve finished.
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Photo 17: A rear view of the finished Sub, slightly different from the final version.
Practical Electronics | February | 2024
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