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Fig.2: the modelled response of the SB Acoustics SB34SWNRX-S75-6 365mm driver in an 80.5-litre enclosure with a tuning frequency of 25.03Hz. Fig.3: a measurement of the Subwoofer’s response outdoors, as far away from sound-reflecting objects as was practical (excepting the ground). SC200 Amplifier Module components update Transistors Q8-Q16 may be difficult to source (everything else is standard: small-signal transistors, resistors, capacitors and so on). For the output transistors, Q13-Q16, there are direct equivalents in very similar but not identical packages. FJA4313OTU (TO-3P) is replaced with FJL4315OTU (TO-264) and FJA4213OTU (TO-3P) is replaced with FJL4215OTU (TO-264). The pin spacings are identical and the package sizes are similar, so no changes should be required to the PCB or the heatsink. The only reason those devices weren’t used in the original design is that the TO-3P versions were cheaper and had good enough dissipation for the job (130W for TO-3P; 150W for TO-264). The FJA4313OTU is still available but the FJA4213OTU isn’t, and if you’re going to change one, you might as well change both. For the other transistors, KSC2690AYS (NPN) and KSA1220AYS (PNP), luckily there are also excellent direct substitutes although from a different manufacturer. These are the TTC004B (NPN) and TTA004B (PNP). They should drop right in; they are in the same packages with the same pinouts and with virtually identical ratings. ends to minimise ‘chuffing’ at high outputs. It is made with stacked layers of MDF cut to form flares at both ends, resulting in a 48-50mm-high, 180mm-wide port. The vent configuration is shown in the ‘X-ray’ style overview of Fig.1, along with the amplifier and enclosure, both described below. If you are not expecting to drive the Subwoofer at high levels or very deep, a single 10cm diameter round port of 41cm length will suffice. Still, with the investment this Subwoofer represents, I feel that compromising on the port is missing the point. The amplifier The integrated amplifier takes its input from an RCA line-level input and delivers about 180W. Fig.4: the composite response of the indoor output from the cone (dark blue) and port (red) show they combine to give the predicted response. 34 The amplifier to use is the SC200 200W Amplifier Module (PE, January to March 2018). Compatible future amplifiers include the Ultra-LD Mk.4 Module (or the Ultra-LD Mk.3 Module if you don’t like working with SMDs). Just like the SC200, both are fine performers in this role. I have designed a chassis that will suit each amplifier module as they are the same size. The enclosure The enclosure is made from 18mm-thick MDF. To provide extra strength and reduce vibration, the front and rear panels are double-­ layered, and there is a full brace in the middle of the enclosure. The enclosure is 560mm deep, 470mm wide and 470mm tall. In our loudspeaker system, the Active Subwoofer is crossed over at 80Hz with a very steep 24dB/octave slope, so there is no chance of ‘hearing’ where the Subwoofer is located (unless things are rattling around it). If you use it with a home theatre system, then I expect the crossover to be in the 80-150Hz region, which will work fine. Fig.5: the impedance of the Subwoofer mounted in the enclosure before connecting the power amplifier. The peaks show that our tuning is as predicted. Practical Electronics | January | 2024 This size is at the sweet spot where a subwoofer moves from being ‘disguiseable’ in a home to something you need to work to accommodate. The enclosure is rock solid and capable of both incredible precision and earth-shattering bass. increases the output from a subwoofer. This is mainly seen below the frequency at which the room’s longest dimension is half a wavelength. For a 10m-long room, that is about 17Hz. Our measured response shows greater output at low frequencies than the Thiele-Small modelling suggests we should see, almost certainly due to room gain. Performance Fig.2 shows the modelled (expected) response, while Fig.3 shows the actual measured response. This was made outdoors, about 1.5m from a shed, with the microphone at listening height for the active monitor speakers on 0.8m stands, and at a distance of 1m from the Subwoofer. The measured -3dB point is 27Hz. The subsonic filter for the subwoofer output was active; removing that would extend the bass deeper. There is some ripple in the response, but that is unavoidable without going to great extremes. The frequency response of subwoofers is tough to measure cleanly indoors due to room resonances and the impact of floors and walls on overall gain. One measurement I took indoors is shown in Fig.4. This is a composite measurement about 20cm from the woofer and port. ‘Room gain’ is a phenomenon where the resonance of a room Fig.6: these are the subwoofer panel cuts from 18mm MDF when using the recommended rebated joints. Photo 1: with a router and some MDF off-cuts, you can build a jig to make precisely aligned rebates. Practical Electronics | January | 2024 35 Photo 2: My home-made circle jig allowed me to create a clean circular rebate and cut out the driver hole perfectly. Photo 3: the stack of panels after the rebates and holes have been made. The vent sides are on the top of the pile (and shown below). They are made from three layers of stacked MDF glued together and sanded smooth. Fig.7: details of the rebates routed in the top and bottom panels (all 5mm deep). Other than that, they are simple rectangles of MDF. Photo 5: it’s critical to ‘dry fit’ everything together before applying glue. If you start gluing and find a problem, it will be (much) harder to fix. The Subwoofer’s impedance curve is shown in Fig.5. It is well within the handling capabilities of the amplifiers we are using and low enough to get almost the full 200W available into the driver. 36 The enclosure There are many ways you can build the enclosure. Fig.6 shows how you can cut all the panels from a single 2400 × 1200mm sheet of 18mm-thick MDF while minimising the number of cuts. I did it that way as I don’t have a table saw and wanted to get the sheet cut at the local hardware store where I purchased it. This proved very successful, and in less than 15 minutes, I had all the major panel cuts done and the panels within 1mm of the specified size. The whole lot then fit in the back of the VW Golf to get it home. The tools you will need to finish the raw panels include a router, jigsaw, cordless drill or hand tools and a lot of elbow grease. Review the drawings before you proceed; detailed views of the cut panels are shown in Figs.7-12. I used routed rebates for all panel joints that allow you to simply glue and clamp the enclosure together if you have many Practical Electronics | January | 2024 Fig.8 (left): here’s how to make the internal brace. The sizes and shapes of the holes don’t need to match mine exactly but make them reasonably close to get the specified performance. Fig.9 (below): the rear panel is made of two pieces of MDF glued together, one slightly smaller than the other. sash clamps. This routing can be done very simply using a jig, described below. You will also need to cut out the holes for the port and amplifier module, and rebate the driver hole. If you don’t like the idea of using a router, you could resize the panels and screw them together as butt joints. You will see in the photos that I used screws as well as rebates. That was to make assembly clear and simple for Zak, my 9-year-old helper who was over for the weekend. He really wanted to get involved and, between us, gluing and screwing the rebated panels went very well. My suggested numbered assembly steps are as follows. 1. Purchase the MDF panel and get it cut into the main pieces. This should be a fair stack of timber. Practical Electronics | January | 2024 2. Route the panels as shown in the panel routing figures (Figs.7, 10 and 11). By screwing an off-cut of 18mm MDF to your worktop and a straight-edged off-cut at 90° to it, you can make an extremely effective routing jig into which the 18mm panels fit perfectly, as shown in Photo 1. Using this jig and an end stop, there is no need for measuring and fiddling to route the brace as the rebates are all at the same depth (5mm). Similarly, you can route the rebates on the end panels using this jig to ensure everything is square. 3. Make the driver hole. I used a circle jig made from an aluminium off-cut. I made several holes in it to get the diameter of the rebate hole and driver cut-out just right, Photo 6: installation of the rear panels. I routed straight across the bottom panel, then filled the rebate with wood filler in the port area. testing with the driver to ensure they were correct. The result is shown in Photo 2. The driver rebate is 10mm to ensure the frame sits flush with the front panel. 4. Cut out the vent holes and holes in the brace. I used a jigsaw. 5. Cut out the vent sides and flares, glue them together and fill and sand them smooth. I used some ‘bog’ I found in the shed; any sandable filler will work. Don’t use acrylic filler as it will not sand! It does not need to be super smooth, but I did want to smooth over some of my less spectacular jigsaw cuts. Assembly With the panels made, as shown in Photo 3, it’s time to assemble them 37 Fig.10: similar to the rear panel, the front panel is two pieces of MDF glued together. See our hints on how to make a jig to route the circular rebate and cut the hole neatly. using the following steps. Fig.13 is a side ‘X-ray’ view of the Subwoofer, which might help you understand how it all goes together. 1. Do a ‘dry fit’, as shown in Photo 5. Take all the pieces and assemble the enclosure without glue or screws. Use masking tape to hold the panels together. You need to be sure that everything fits and that there are no unmanageable gaps. If you need to file or trim any panels, now is the time, as a good job is almost entirely in the preparation. 2. If you plan to use screws and glue, drill and countersink the holes to accommodate the screws. A 4mm drill is about the right size. When assembling the box, you will want to use a 3mm drill to make pilot holes for the screws in the end grains. This might seem like a large pilot hole, but the 50mm screws will be totally secure, and you will experience no splitting of the MDF. 3. Install the rear panels. This step requires the rear exterior and interior panels to be attached to the base. First, sit the two rear panels in the rebate and then dry-fit the side panels to ensure the alignment of the rear panels is good. Screw Fig.12: the vent is made from these pieces, but note that you should cut the six side pieces from 16mm MDF to get the required 48-50mm total thickness for three pieces, or use four cut from 18mm MDF and two from 12mm MDF (18mm × 2 + 12mm = 16mm × 3 = 48mm). 38 the rear interior and exterior panels together using 35mm-long 8G screws with PVA adhesive between the panels. Make sure they are held tightly together. Now align this on the base panel, ensuring the two side panels fit perfectly. Screw this to the bottom panel. 4.  Attach the sides and the port braces. To get the left side perfectly aligned, drill pilot holes for the screws in the right spots and screw and glue it in. Then fit the brace pieces so they are flush on the rear exterior panel. Make sure they Photo 7: at this point, all the panels except the top have been attached. Practical Electronics | January | 2024 Fig.11: the two side panels are identical and have a central 5mm rebate (for the interior brace) and one at each end (where the front and rear panels will join). are parallel inside the enclosure and secure them. Finally, install the right-hand panel. 5. Install the internal brace and front panels. First, glue and screw down the panel that forms the top of the port. The internal brace and front panels should slide straight into place in their rebates. If not, adjust them until they are a perfect fit. Glue and screw them in. 6. Finally, attach the top panel (Photos 7 and 8). Make sure any glue that squeezes from the joints is cleaned up as once dry, it is hard to remove. Finishing the enclosure I chose to paint the Active Subwoofer, the key steps being: 1. Rout the corners with a 6mm radius router to make the edges neat, smooth and pleasant to handle. 2.  Seal the enclosures with acrylic primer applied with a roller. 3. Sand the enclosure lightly to get rid of any gross roughness. 4. Fill all screw holes and end grains with filler, ensuring not to put too much. That would be a terrible mistake to make; a thick layer of filler is very hard to sand down. 5. Sand it smooth (Photo 9). Fig.13: an internal side view of the finished Subwoofer without the side panels. Practical Electronics | January | 2024 Photo 8: after installing the top panel, I applied clamps liberally and waited for it to dry. You can see the exit of the port and the flush fit of the brace to the top panel of the port here. 6. Repeat the filling and sanding until the surface is perfect. 7. Prime again, sand and paint for final finish (Photo 10). The subwoofer amplifier I built the amplifier and mounted it with a suitable power supply on an aluminium plate. I chose my amplifier to deliver close to 180W continuous into our 6W subwoofer driver. I fabricated a bracket and panel to accommodate the amplifier and all parts to make a stand-alone module, that slips into a 220 × 170mm cut-out in the Subwoofer’s rear panel. This includes the following: n O ne SC200 (or: Ultra-LD Mk.3 (mostly through-hole) or Mk.4 (mostly SMD) amplifier module) n The Multi-channel Speaker Protector (with one channel used) n A 250-300W power supply n Heatsinking, switching and protection Refer to the January to March 2018 issues of PE for details on the SC200 Amplifier Module. The Multi-channel Speaker Protector we’re using was described in the January 2023 issue of PE. The only change from those instructions is to install just one relay on the Speaker Protector as we are running it from ±57V rails. Using only one relay halves the dissipation in the regulator, and we only have one channel to protect. I used a 3mm-thick panel of aluminium as the main plate for the chassis. To that, I mounted a folded bracket made from 1.5mm-thick 39 aluminium for the transformer and an L-shaped panel for the speaker protector. Next month We don’t have enough space to fit the construction details of the internal amplifier for the Active Subwoofer in this issue. All the remaining construction details will be in the final article next month. In the meantime, if you’re keen to commence construction of the High-Performance Active Subwoofer, you can gather all the parts in the parts list. You can then assemble the Active Subwoofer cabinet using the instructions in this article. After that, you could assemble the SC200 (or Ultra-LD Mk.3/Mk.4) Amplifier Module using the instructions in the January to March 2018 issues of PE (but without installing the output devices yet). It would also be a good idea to build the Four-Channel Speaker Protector module (January 2023) but leave off one of the relays and the associated driving components. We only need to protect a single channel in this application. Do not install the driver in the cabinet yet, although you can prepare to fit it. That’s because you will need to install the acoustic wadding first (to be described next month). You will also need to connect a suitable length of heavy-duty speaker cable to the driver so that it can be connected to the yet-to-be-assembled amplifier module. Next month, we’ll have instructions for building the bracket that the amplifier sits on and that the mains power supply is also mounted on it. The amplifier module sits on one side of the bracket, with the Speaker Protector next to it. The transformer, bridge rectifier and capacitor bank mount on the other side, making for a compact integrated amplifier module. On the rear of this module, outside the subwoofer cabinet, will be the amplifier heatsink, mains input socket, power switch and RCA signal input. Reproduced by arrangement with SILICON CHIP magazine 2023. www.siliconchip.com.au Photo 9: I sanded and primed the active Subwoofer, then sanded it again and added a few filler touch-ups to make the joins perfectly smooth. JTAG Connector Plugs Directly into PCB!! No Header! No Brainer! Our patented range of Plug-of-Nails™ spring-pin cables plug directly into a tiny footprint of pads and locating holes in your PCB, eliminating the need for a mating header. Save Cost & Space on Every PCB!! Solutions for: PIC . dsPIC . ARM . MSP430 . Atmel . Generic JTAG . Altera Xilinx . BDM . C2000 . SPY-BI-WIRE . SPI / IIC . Altium Mini-HDMI . & More www.PlugOfNails.com Tag-Connector footprints as small as 0.02 sq. inch (0.13 sq cm) 40 Photo 10: the Active Subwoofer with the final coat of ‘rattle can’ black paint. It’s supposed to be satin but looks a lot like gloss. 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