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Constructional Project
These speakers are retro, stylish and surprisingly good performers. They’re
also pretty easy to make and don’t cost the Earth. My wife liked them so
much that she actually wanted me to put them in the living room!
By Phil Prosser
H
ere is our take on the IKEA salad
bowl speaker concept that has
been spreading around the internet,
which we think came out really well.
This article describes a fully functioning pair of desktop/bookshelf speakers and gives some suggestions for
tweaking the design to suit your needs.
What initially attracted us to this
idea was the mix of an old-school
spherical speaker with extreme ease
of construction. While the initial
motive for building these was style
and looks, it quickly became apparent that these little cuties had more
to offer than that.
Those who make speakers will
be quick to comment that a sphere
should be highly resonant; however,
our tests show this is not the case.
The fact that the driver forms a significant portion of the surface area of
the sphere results in the Q of the internal resonance being relatively low.
As a result, our measurements don’t
show resonant peaks in the response.
Another benefit of a spherical speaker is that it has no edges. Or is it all
one edge? Either way, concerns like
edge diffraction and baffle effect are
avoided. The fact that these speakers are spherical makes them extremely rigid.
Edge diffraction is the effect of
sound waves propagating from the
driver across a speaker’s front panel,
then hitting the edge, which forms a
discontinuity from propagation in
60
‘half space’ to ‘free space’. This change
causes diffraction at the speaker edges,
affecting the frequency response and
off-axis behaviour.
There are many ways a spherical
speaker can be mounted. Without creating a solution to this, they will tend
to roll around! We have come up with
a couple of options, including feet for
the desk version and “rocket” floor
stands, both shown in the photos.
The desktop version uses three small
doorknobs as feet.
The loudspeaker driver used is the
SB Acoustics SB12PFCR25-4-COAX, a
bass/mid driver with a coaxial tweeter
(mounted in the centre). This allows
us to achieve really good performance
from about 70Hz upwards. These
work brilliantly as desktop speakers and would also match well with
any of our subwoofers crossed over
at 80-100Hz.
If you’re interested in matching
these speakers with a subwoofer,
Silicon Chip magazine published my
Tapped Horn Sub design in its September 2021 issue; it is inexpensive
and easy to build. You could also
consider the very high-performance
Active Subwoofer that was published
in PE in January & February 2024.
We chose this specific SB Acoustics driver because it incorporates the
tweeter, and neatly addresses the challenge of finding somewhere to mount
the tweeter. The only other solution
we could think of was to mount the
tweeter externally, which we did with
the floor-standing version, but it was
a real hassle.
We have added a port to our enclosure. This allows us to extend the
lower frequency response to about
70Hz, with some useful output below
that. That is a good result for such a
small speaker and is reasonable in
its intended applications of desktop
usage or placement in a small room.
Don’t try to run a dance party using
these speakers, though.
There is a bit of a hump in the frequency response in the 100-200Hz
region. This is a result of the port
and helps fill out the bottom end,
given the roll-off below 80Hz. The
Features & specifications
– Compact full-range loudspeakers with a unique appearance
– Simple construction
– Spherical enclosure minimises diffraction
– Coaxial tweeter for good off-axis response
– Can be desk or floor mounted (the latter with a simple stand)
– Frequency response: 70Hz to 20kHz (±3dB typical)
– Power handling: 50W RMS per channel
– Impedance: nominally 4Ω
– Relatively low total cost
Practical Electronics | September | 2024
Salad Bowl Speakers
Fig.1: the modelled response of these Speakers with a 90mm port (green curve)
or tuned for 58Hz with a 160mm port (orange curve). The longer port gives more
output below 70Hz, but trades that off against reduced output between about
70Hz and 200Hz.
black line in Fig.2 shows the low-
frequency response you will achieve
if you simply omit the port. If you use
these on a desk backed up to a wall,
omit the port.
We used a 25mm bass reflex port
cut to 90mm in length. This tunes
the system to resonance at 74Hz. In
practice, the vent ends close to the
driver magnet, so its effective length
is over 90mm. This tuning gains us
a couple of decibels of extra bass in
the roll-off region.
In an ideal world, this port would
be 160mm long, tuning the enclosure
to 58Hz, but there is not enough room
in the enclosure for that - see Fig.1.
Cost
While these speakers are designed
to be relatively inexpensive, we are
using high-quality drivers from SB
Acoustics that cost around £45 each.
We also can’t avoid some relatively
expensive air-cored inductors in the
crossover, meaning the total cost to
build these speakers will be about
£350. Still, it’s hard to buy a decent
pair of speakers for less than that.
You might be able to build a pair
for around £180 or perhaps a bit less
if you take some shortcuts, eg, if you
come up with alternative feet and
wind your own air-cored inductors.
Crossover
The crossover we’re using is based
on that recommended by SB Acoustics with some minor modifications.
This is a third-order electrical crossover at 2.2kHz. Third-order is a higher
Practical Electronics | September | 2024
order than we would generally want
to use. Still, given that the tweeter
resonance is at 1300Hz, it’s necessary for the crossover to occur at a
sensible frequency.
Our measured frequency response
of the driver in the spherical enclosure (Fig.2) is very close to that SB
Acoustics provides. The only notable difference is that our tweeter
was 1-2dB less sensitive than theirs.
Fig.2 is a raw measurement of the
driver with no processing at all. We
are looking for spikes and dips that, if
present, will colour the sound. Happily, the response is actually very
smooth. We will discuss that chasm
at 12kHz or so later; the short answer
is that it disappears off-axis. Those
wobbles in response at the bottom end
are due to floor and room interactions.
We were about to start a fresh crossover design when we noticed that SB
Acoustics published a recommended
crossover circuit. When a manufacturer publishes a reference design, it
is usually a great starting point. We
duly tested it.
Given the tweeter’s small diameter,
a third-order design was appropriate. It is important to drive as little
energy at 1.2kHz into that tweeter as
possible. The woofer also has a thirdorder crossover, which makes sense
from a symmetry perspective. This
driver is well-behaved, as shown in
Fig.2. So, if not for the tiny tweeter,
a second-order crossover may have
been better.
The resulting system response is
shown in Fig.3. This is very flat
You could repurpose a couple
of coat racks as speaker stands
since the Speakers are small and
light, or build similar stands from
MDF or other timber. We used a
driver without a coaxial tweeter
and mounted the tweeter under
the enclosure, but it doesn’t look
great and is fiddly to assemble. We
therefore recommend you stick
with the coaxial drivers.
61
Constructional Project
20dB
10dB
0dB
-10dB
-20dB
-30dB
50Hz
100Hz
200Hz
500Hz
1kHz
2kHz
5kHz
10kHz
20kHz
Fig.2: the measured frequency response of the SB Acoustic SB12PFCR25-4
driver without any processing or smoothing. The woofer response is in black,
while the tweeter is in red. The dip above 10kHz is discussed in the text.
20dB
10dB
0dB
-10dB
-20dB
-30dB
50Hz
100Hz
200Hz
500Hz
1kHz
2kHz
5kHz
10kHz
20kHz
Fig.3: the overall Speaker frequency response with 1/6th octave smoothing,
with on-axis response in black and 15° off-axis in red. This is very good for
such a simple design. The dip at about 12kHz is a consequence of the tweeter
location. As the crossover is optimised for a 15° off-axis response, that dip has
disappeared in the red curve.
20dB
10dB
through the main audio range, up to
10-15kHz. The dip between 10kHz
and 20kHz can be seen to move as
you move off-axis. This is likely a
consequence of the coaxial tweeter
and varying path lengths from the exit
of the coaxial tweeter to the woofer
voice coil former.
It is important to note that there is
no sign of the crossover at 2.2kHz in
the frequency response plot. In short,
this crossover works very well with
the driver.
The following hypothesis hasn’t
been proven, but the wavelength of
12kHz is about 27mm, and destructive interference will occur for a path
difference of 10-15mm. Given the location of the tweeter cone relative to
the coil edge, the dip makes sense.
It also explains why the dip changes
in frequency and disappears as you
move off-axis.
This ripple in response is at a frequency near the limit of what most
people can hear, so it is not a big deal.
Our frequency response plot was
made 1.2m above the floor at a distance of 30cm, the same distance at
which the manufacturer’s response
plots were made. When used on a
desk, as we expect these will be, there
is no sign of that dip. It’s only apparent when the driver is measured in
free space.
There are all sorts of other artefacts in the plots, which, in our test
location, resulted from our monitor,
keyboard and probably even coffee
cup! These peaks and dips move all
over the place as you move around
the Speaker. Running the risk of being
told to clear our desk, Fig.4 shows
several measurements of the Speaker
in different locations.
Subjective evaluation
Fig.4: the frequency response of a Salad Bowl Speaker with 1/6th octave
smoothing and reflex port installed at various locations. The black curve is
about 15° off-axis, red is straight on, blue is elevated about 400mm and again
about 15° off-axis, and purple is on the other side of the desk at a similarly
elevated location. The low-frequency ripple from the room is very evident.
These speakers sound pretty darn
good using the standard crossover. We
did make two minor changes, though.
Firstly, we reduced the tweeter attenuation resistor to boost treble by 1dB.
Also, the OEM design used a 0.4mH
series inductor for the woofer. We
had a bunch of 250µH units available, and calculations showed it would
make a negligible difference, so we
went with that.
Given how well these measured,
we shelved any idea of redesigning
the crossover. Why break something
that works? The final crossover is
shown in Fig.5.
62
Practical Electronics | September | 2024
0dB
-10dB
-20dB
-30dB
50Hz
100Hz
200Hz
500Hz
1kHz
2kHz
5kHz
10kHz
20kHz
Salad Bowl Speakers
Fig.5: the crossover circuit provides a third-order high-pass filter (HPF)
for the tweeter and a third-order low-pass filter (LPF) for the woofer,
crossing over at about 2.2kHz. There is no phase inversion. We have made
the resistor 1.5W as that provided better balance in our speakers than the
suggested 2.2W. Still, if your tweeters are less or more sensitive than ours,
you may wish to tweak its value.
The change from 2.2W to 1.5W for
the tweeter series resistor will increase the tweeter output by about
1dB and slightly improves damping.
Given the frequencies involved, it is
not likely that the reduced sensitivity
is a consequence of the spherical enclosure; it could be that our samples
are slightly less efficient than average
(or the ones they tested were above
average in efficiency).
When building yours, consider experimenting with values of, say, 1W,
1.5W and 2.2W to see which results
in the most natural sound in your
application.
Practical considerations
The mounting location for the crossover was a bit of a head-scratcher.
Usually, we would make a PCB and
screw it to the enclosure. That is
not an option here as, being spherical, there are no flat surfaces to use.
There is also precious little room to
play with.
So we made a PCB with rounded edges that you can glue into the
speaker base. It just fits through the
driver hole, and we have placed the
1.5mH inductor so that you can snug
this up against the port and glue
them together – see Photo 1. We used
neutral-cure silicone sealant to glue
the crossover PCB to the enclosure,
as it will stick to just about anything,
and once it sets, it is very resilient.
Building the speakers
The sole ‘tricky’ part of building
these speakers is cutting the bottom
off one bowl to accommodate the
driver. If you have a router or can
Practical Electronics | September | 2024
borrow one, it will be much easier
than you might think. We reckon it
would be possible to use a tenon saw
and do this by hand if you clamp the
bowl well, as the bowl wall is only
8mm thick.
When we cut off the bottom of the
bowl to accommodate the speaker
driver, we need sufficient material
left to screw into. To achieve this, we
took an MDF off-cut and cut it into
two 120mm circles using a jigsaw. We
then used an 80-grit sanding disc in
a drill to get them to be rough fits to
the bowls – see Photo 2. The fit does
not need to be perfect; we will glue
it in with acrylic filler.
Use an N95 mask and work outside
(if possible) when cutting and sanding MDF. Having a vacuum cleaner
pick up the sawdust as you make it
is also a good idea. MDF dust is a
health hazard.
Once you have roughed the wood
so it fits with a gap under, say, 5mm,
apply acrylic filler liberally around
the sloped section and squeeze it into
the bottom of the bowl, as shown
in Photo 3. It is a good idea to drill
a hole in the middle of the MDF to
allow air out as you stick it in. Leave
it for a week to really set.
Photo 1: you can see how the
port, driver and crossover fit into
the spherical enclosure that was
made by gluing two salad bowls
together. You can also just see the
MDF reinforcement ring behind
the circular driver cutout.
Photo 2: we roughly cut two
120mm MDF discs from off-cuts
(left), then used an 80-grit sanding
disc in a cordless drill chuck to
shape it to fit in the bottom of the
bowl (right).
Routing
We used a circle jig (described on
page 37 of the January 2024 issue)
and a router to expand the flat portion of the bowl base to an outer diameter of 122mm, matching the diameter of the SB12PFCR25-4-COAX
driver. We placed the bowl top-down
on the workbench and drilled a hole
in the middle of the base to centre
Photo 3: the reinforcement disc is
glued into the bottom of the bowl
using acrylic gap filler. Before
doing this, ensure it is a close fit,
leaving gaps less than 5mm wide
all around.
63
Constructional Project
the router. Make this route in two or
three cuts, and do not cut too deep.
Briefly, the circle jig is a length
of aluminium bar with holes drilled
in it to allow it to be bolted to the
router. There are other holes drilled
in it at various distances from the
router. After loosely screwing one
of these into a centre hole drilled in
the bowl, the router will rotate about
that point and make a perfect circle.
We are pretty sure that a steady
hand, some clamps and a tenon saw
would do the job, and might actually
be easier and make less mess.
If adding a port, drill the hole now.
We used a 32mm hole saw and filed
the hole to the required 33mm. We
centred the hole 50mm below the
centreline of the bowl see (Photo 5).
This results in the port pointing upwards inside the Speaker.
You need to cut 10mm off the 25mm
port to make it 90mm long; otherwise, it will interfere with the speaker magnet later. We made the hole
tight enough that we had to push
the port in forcefully. If your hole is
too big, glue the port in using some
acrylic filler.
Cutting the speaker hole
Speaker connectors
The driver fits into a 102mm hole
in the base, visible in Photo 4. Mark
this with a compass and cut it with
either a handsaw or jigsaw. The hole
is fairly small, so only a little elbow
grease would be expended doing this
by hand. Check that your driver fits,
and if necessary, fettle (a fancy word
for bodge) the cutout so that the terminals do not interfere with the hole.
If we were using these on a desk,
pushed back against a wall, we would
omit the port. The boost in low frequencies using the Speaker in a corner
will be sufficient, and you will be
better off without the port. If you’ve
already added the port, you could
put a sock in it for such use cases.
If you will use the speakers in more
‘free space’ and without a subwoofer,
include the port, as the low-frequency
output will benefit from it.
We used very simple combo banana/
binding posts. The speakers’ power
handling does not warrant anything
massive, but we think these are better
than the cheap spring-loaded terminals. The location of the connectors
is largely a matter of convenience;
ours are shown in Photo 5.
These need an 8mm hole, although
we prefer to start smaller and use a
file to get a good fit with the chamfered keying on the threaded section.
That stops them from coming loose
and spinning.
Our experience building the prototype showed that it is possible to
solder to these terminals once they
are in the assembled Speaker, but it is
fiddly. We recommend you pre-install
the input wiring to these terminals.
Solder 300mm lengths of black and
red wire to each pair and add 6mm
diameter heatshrink tubing over the
solder joints. You can trim the wires
Sticking the two salad bowls together is as simple as it sounds. We
used 120 grit sandpaper to take the
gloss off the rim of the bowls and
around the inside of the bowls. This
ensures there is a good surface for
the glue to adhere to.
We then mixed five-minute epoxy
(Araldite), a teaspoon full or less per
bowl. Use a piece of thin wire, 1mm
in diameter or so, to apply a small
bead around the top rim of the base
bowl. Our tips are:
● Do not use too much glue, or it
will ooze out around the joint.
Photo 4: the result of cutting a
102mm diameter hole in both the
base of the bowl (already routed
to have a larger flat area) and the
MDF reinforcement disc, leaving
just a ring.
Photo 5: the flat part of the base
opposite the driver cutout provides
a place to mount the two binding
posts, while the port is offset so it
fires downwards and clears the
internal crossover assembly.
Photo 6: the finished speakers
look classy, if a bit unusual. Fans
of post-modern art could paint
them white and add red wiggly
radial lines around the drivers to
make them look like eyeballs!
Fitting the port
64
to length once you have attached them
to the crossover.
Adding feet
As mentioned earlier, they need feet
for desktop use. We used brass knobs
because we thought they looked nice
and were easy to fit. They are not individually that expensive, but there
are six, so it does add up. You might
come up with your own solution.
The feet are visible in Photos 5 &
6. They fit through 4mm holes drilled
as shown in Fig.6. Whatever feet you
choose, make sure you place them so
the Speaker is stable; their placement
must consider the centre of gravity
being pulled forward by the weight
of the driver magnet.
The knobs we used come with long
bolts that you can cut and then file
the ends smooth to ensure they thread
onto the knobs without sticking. You
can use a metal file to do that.
Gluing the pieces together
Practical Electronics | September | 2024
Salad Bowl Speakers
● Get everything ready before you
start applying the glue. It will set in
less than five minutes, so you don’t
have time to muck around.
● Be ready to clean up spills; have
cloths and isopropyl alcohol/white
spirits ready.
● Know how you want to align the
bowls. Ours were so random that we
kind of gave up, but you might be
more discerning than us.
Once you have a thin bead on the
bottom bowl, gently place the top
bowl over it. Very gently wriggle it to
ensure both sides are wet, and check
that everything is aligned. Set it aside
for a while.
Once the main joint is set, mix another batch of glue and, using an icy
pole stick or similar, run a bead of
glue around the joint inside the glued
bowls to ensure the final result is airtight. With the roughened surface, the
epoxy bond will be extremely strong.
Assembling the crossover
The crossover PCB with chamfered
corners is coded 01109231 and measures 98 × 104mm – see Fig.7.
We etched the PCBs shown in the
photos ourselves as the design is
simple. PCBs for sale will be the usual
green commercial products, but otherwise identical to these.
Our photographs show yellow polypropylene 15μF capacitors, which are
overkill; we simply used them as they
were on hand. We have specified 15μF
100V bipolar electrolytic capacitors
as they will work perfectly well and
are what we would buy if building
another pair of speakers.
We have left room for a 400μH inductor to be used in place of the recommended 250μH inductor. All testing was done with 250μH, but you can
experiment; we don’t expect much
difference in performance over the
range of 250μH to 400μH.
If you want to experiment, run
wires from the drivers out through the
port to the crossover. Get the crossover as you want before gluing it into
the Speaker.
Assembly is straightforward. Fit the
screw terminals first; still, you might
want to simply solder flying leads and
save on this cost. If you choose to do
this, solder 300mm flying leads to the
bass and tweeter connectors and label
them so you know what goes where.
The input wires should already be
soldered to the input connectors.
Practical Electronics | September | 2024
DIAGRAMS ARE SHOWN
AT 61.5% SCALE
Fig.6: these views of an assembled Speaker should give you a good idea of the
relative locations of the driver, feet, port, crossover and terminals. You could
vary some of these slightly but we feel our design is pretty close to optimal.
65
Constructional Project
Next, mount the resistor. This does
not need to be proud of the PCB, as
if this is getting hot, your tweeter
will be in serious trouble. So it’s OK
to push it down flat before soldering
and trimming the leads.
Install the capacitors next, none
of which are polarised. Put a dab of
neutral-cure silicone sealant under
each to stop them from vibrating.
Finally, solder the inductors in
place. Note that these are all at right
angles to the others to ensure the magnetic fields don’t interact. Make sure
you stick to this arrangement. Again,
glue each in place with a solid dab
of neutral-cure silicone.
With all the components mounted,
check your soldering and that everything is in the right place before
moving on. Let the silicone cure before
moving on to final assembly.
Final speaker assembly
Fig.7: the crossover PCB is straightforward to assemble. While we’re
showing the capacitors as axial polyester types, axial crossover bipolar
electrolytic capacitors are considerably cheaper, especially for the 15μF
cap, and will work fine. Ensure the inductors are mounted as shown so their
magnetic fields won’t interact (much).
The prototype crossover was simple enough that we made the PCB
ourselves. We recommend using electrolytic crossover capacitors instead of
the two large 15μF polypropylene capacitors shown here.
66
Before you glue everything in place,
let’s check that everything works, as
it is diffcult to remove the crossover
afterwards. Do the following on the
bench. Strip a short length of all the
flying leads and connect the leads
from the input connector to the input
terminals.
Next, connect the bass driver and
tweeter to their respective inputs on
the crossover but connect only the
ground wires at the driver end at
this stage. We want to just touch the
positive wire for the test. You can
tell which is which as the bass driver
connections have heavy-duty tinsel
going into the spider on the driver
while the tweeter connections run
to thin wires going to the rear of the
magnet assembly.
Apply a signal to the inputs and
touch the positive bass wire to the
terminal on the driver. You should
only hear the lower-frequency parts
of the test signal. It won’t have any
real bass with the driver on the bench.
If you hear treble instead, or nothing, check your connections.
Next, touch the tweeter positive
wire to the terminal on the speakers.
You should hear ‘hissy’ treble. It will
not be loud. If there is nothing or all
you hear is muted sound, check your
wiring and component values.
Assuming that it all checks out,
test-fit the crossover into the enclosure. Photo 7 provides a pretty good
view of how to install it. You need
to align the thin axis with the hole
Practical Electronics | September | 2024
Salad Bowl Speakers
Parts List – Salad Bowl Speakers
Pair of desktop speakers
2 SB Acoustics 120mm coaxial speakers
[Willys-HiFi Ltd SB12PFCR25-4-COAX]
2 25mm diameter, 100mm-long PortBASS reflex ports
[Willys-HiFi Ltd FL28-102]
4 IKEA salad bowls
[BLANDA MATT 20cm bamboo serving bowl, 002.143.41]
2 16mm MDF sheets or off-cuts, at least 120×120mm each
2 red captive head binding posts for speaker terminals [Altronics P9252]
2 black captive head binding posts for speaker terminals [Altronics P9254]
6 ~15mm brass doorknobs for feet
3 2m lengths of heavy-duty hookup wire (white/blue, black and red)
1 100mm length of 6mm diameter heatshrink tubing
8 6G × 20mm countersunk head wood screws (ideally black)
2 400 × 150mm (approx.) pieces of 50mm-thick acrylic wadding or similar
1 small tube of 5-minute epoxy [eg, Araldite]
1 310ml tube of White SikaSeal Acrylic 100 Gap Filler
2 crossover boards (see below)
Crossover board – parts to build one board
1 single-sided PCB coded 01109231, 98 × 104mm
2 250-270μH air-cored crossover inductors (L1, L3)
[Willys-HiFi Ltd 1340230]
1 1.5mH air-cored crossover inductor (L2) [Willys-HiFi Ltd 1700511]
2 15μF 100V non-polarised electrolytic crossover capacitors
[Willys-HiFi Ltd MKTA-150]
1 5.6μF 100V metallised polypropylene crossover capacitor
[Willys-HiFi Ltd 1341866]
3 dual mini terminal blocks, 5.08mm pitch (optional; CON1-CON3)
1 1.5W 5W 5% resistor (can be varied to adjust treble balance; see text)
and put the 1.5mH inductor in first,
as we need this at the back to make
room. We also need the weight at
the back to improve the balance of
the Speaker.
Once you are sure you know how
you will get things in and out and
that there is room (fettle the hole if
necessary), we are set to finalise the
wiring.
Trim the input and output wires
so that, with the driver in front of
the enclosure, you have sufficient
length for the crossover to be glued
in place. Solder the connections for
the bass, tweeter and input. It is important to put some 6mm heatshrink
on the speaker terminals when you
connect the wires. These terminals
are close to the crossover, and we do
not want them shorting to it.
Now put solid dabs of neutral-cure
silicone sealant on the underside of
the PCB at each of the rounded corners. Then install the board, with
some tissues/rags handy to clean your
fingers. Carefully insert the crossover into the Speaker enclosure. As
Practical Electronics | September | 2024
you will have found, it is a little like
a puzzle, but it does go in and sits
alongside the port.
Make sure there is silicone still
under the PCB, and where you inevitably rub some onto the enclosure,
clean up immediately.
We used a long screwdriver to add
some extra silicone between the enclosure wall and the top of each corner of
the PCB to ensure it won’t move later.
Leave it to cure; don’t be tempted to rush this, as silicone has no
strength until it cures. We used a
small piece of leftover acrylic wadding as damping for the Speaker, as
shown in Photo 8.
Anything like open-cell foam, acrylic wadding or the contents of a disused cushion would do. Lightly stuff
the enclosure and ensure the port is
not completely blocked. Now where
did that cushion go?
Finally, install the driver. We
mounted the driver with the terminals horizontal. This ensures that
the terminals cannot rub against the
crossover components.
Photo 8: the Speaker just before
we finally attached the driver,
with acoustic wadding loosely
stuffed inside.
Ensure each driver has the same
rotation so the screws line up. They
will look silly if the screws are all
over the place. We drilled a 1.5mm
pilot hole for each screw and used
6GA wood screws. Do these ‘gently
hand tight’. These simply need to
secure the driver well enough to
achieve an air seal.
Testing and setup
Now for the fun! You will note that
Photo 7: this close-up shows how
the crossover board is orientated
so the closest inductor just misses
the port tube.
67
Constructional Project
find a spot with free space around
and behind the Speakers. We found
that when placed right up against a
wall/desk junction, there was a reinforcement of bass, with a pronounced
peak in the bass region. As mentioned
earlier, blocking the port(s) should
reduce that.
Refrain from facing the speakers
straight at your listening position,
though this is less of a concern on
a desk. The crossover is optimal for
a slightly offset listening position.
Observations
The Salad Bowl Speaker
(not shown at actual size).
the acoustic output is night and day
between the driver on the bench and
in the enclosure. We were surprised
at the bass output these little speakers deliver.
Start gently and play some program material, verifying that there
is output from the tweeters and bass
drivers. If there is anything odd, now
is the time to check. Once everything
is good, you are set to find where to
put them!
Often you have little discretion in
the placement of a speaker. Try to
Our most ardent critic at home
loves the style. We think it is interesting, both visually and in terms of
a speaker free from diffraction, and
we see this in the plots.
The coaxial driver really met our
expectations, with a consistent sound
experience at a wide range of angles.
The low end surprised us. It is not
a disco speaker but does a fine job for
moderate listening. As the measurements suggest, the sound is clean and
free from annoying characteristics.
We could hear the elevated bass
when we used the Speaker in a corner,
so we would use no port in such a
location.
While we have rated them at 50W,
you should show some discretion
if playing deep bass through them.
These are intended for small rooms,
on computer desks and similar.
While the impedance is nominally
4W, they present a fairly benign load
with a higher-than-rated impedance
over most of the audio range. Any
modern amplifier will happily drive
them. Our inexpensive, compact Hummingbird amplifier module is ideal
(see the December 2022 issue). PE
1590 die-cast aluminium IP54/IP65
Learn more:
hammondmfg.com/1590
uksales<at>hammondmfg.com • + 44 1256 812812
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Practical Electronics | September | 2024
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